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Wednesday, 8 January 2014

LCM AW14: SAVILE ROW AND ST. JAMES’S

Entitled ‘Buckle Up and Button Down’ and held in the maze of underground tunnels that is the Churchill war rooms the lights were low and the atmosphere dense for the Savile Row and St James’s presentation in collaboration with The Woolmark Company.



The presentation is a reminder of the fact that London is the world capital of masculine style, and has been for over two centuries and is styled with London’s longest standing hatters, shirt and shoe makers plus Bremont Watches.

Squeezing through throngs of people we saw the 1940′s inspired tailoring showcased on models posed in the original war rooms, acting out scenes from the era.  Models were answering phones, writing notes, talking death rates and reading Top Secret documents.  Groomed to perfection the menswear fitted comfortably in the oppressive surroundings.

Tweed, velvet, corduroy and herringbone all served to highlight the war time eras style. Trousers and breeches worn high on the waist bore strong pleated details and were hoisted with authentic button braces. Double breasted jackets, jetted pockets and fitted trench coats were topped with low riding trilby and bowler hats by Bates and Locks. Tightly knotted ties and fitted waistcoats add to the feeling of vintage dapper, as well as glasses by Cutler and Gross – shirts with revered cuffs offering a glimpse of Bremont watches.  Taking full advantage of fabrics of the era the looks included moleskins, flannel and twill.

Further into the warren we find bedrooms, the occupants lounging in classic pajamas with woolen dressing gowns featuring patchwork pockets, robust piping and a range of tweeds.

In the ‘main’ Conference Room a table of seemingly benign older gentlemen are sat in their stunning, sharp tailoring. These gentlemen are a line-up of famous English actors including Oliver Cotton, Michael Gambon and Kennth Cranham – a slightly more authentic representation of the original inhabitants of this underground maze!
The presentation ended with a cocktail reception hosted by Chivas. A range of specially crafted, bespoke whiskey cocktails included The Cocktail Cuff- with vermouth and chocolate, The Chivas Three Piece – with pineapple and ginger beer (delicious!), the Green Tea Tailor and the Savile Row Classic – scotch on the rocks.

More than just a presentation of Savile Row and St James’s tailors, this was an experience – why aren’t all living museums this stylish and gentile?

The stunning, elegant gentlemen’s fashions that the tailors of Savile Row and Mayfair/St. James’s are renowned for, was so beautifully showcased and styled in this one-off experience reminding us that London truly is the lucky owner of some of the best tailors in the world.



Included in the presentation:

SAVILE ROW TAILORING HOUSES

  • Anderson & Sheppard (1906) anderson-sheppard.co.uk
  • Chester Barrie (1935) chesterbarrie.co.uk
  • Chittlebourogh & Morgan (1974) chittleboroughandmorgan.co.uk
  • Davies & Sons (1804) daviesandsonsavilerow.com
  • Ede & Ravenscroft (1689) edeandravenscroft.co.uk
  • Edward Sexton (1969) edwardsexton.co.uk
  • Gieves & Hawkes (1785 & 1771) gievesandhawkes.com
  • Henry Poole & Co (1806) henrypoole.com
  • H. Huntsman & Sons (1849) h-huntsman.com
  • Kathryn Sargent (2012) kathrynsargent.com 
  • Lutwyche (2000) lutwyche.co.uk
  • Richard Anderson (2001) richardandersonltd.com
  • Richard James Bespoke (1992) richardjames.co.uk
  • Welsh & Jefferies (1917) welshandjefferies.com


MAYFAIR & ST.JAMES’S

  • Bates (1898) bates-hats.co.uk
  • Budd (1910) buddshirts.co.uk
  • Crockett and Jones (1879) crockettandjones.com
  • Foster and Son (1840) foster.co.uk
  • Edward Green (1890) edwardgreen.com
  • Emma Willis (1987) emmawillis.com
  • G.J. Cleverley (1958) gjcleverley.co.uk
  • Holland and Holland (1835) hollandandholland.com
  • James Lock & Co (1676) lockhatters.co.uk
  • John Lobb LTD (1866) johnlobbltd.co.uk
  • Sean O’Flynn (2005) seanoflynnshirtmaker.co.uk
  • Turnbull & Asser (1885) turnbullandasser.co.uk


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