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Thursday, 24 October 2013

Sangue Novo - ModaLisboa


Opening Moda Lisboa (FashionWeek Lisbon) this week, the selection of young Portuguese designers showcased the diverse range of new talent emerging on the Portugese fashion scene. With ModaLisboa's core designers not changing much throughout the years this addition of new talent was exciting for everyone. 

These new designers were given the opportunity to show to National and International press in the very public Praça do Município  (the square in front of the town hall for us Brits) where the passing public and locals stopped to admire the show. 

Joaquim Correia

This short collection showed the designers skill and ingenuity over ready-to-wear values. The collection was made seemingly entirely of hand-crafted latex. Mottled fleshy pink and sky blue was contrasted with white while texture was key - one fabric appeared to have been flattened during creation while another featured capillary-like ridges. The silhouette was loose fitting and hung away from the body with strong lines. 
Considering that to dry latex you have to leave it for up to 24 hours this collection showed great dedication to fashion. 



Filipa Gomes

A rustic collection that tarnished the garments with bleaching at the seams. The colours and fabrics also followed the theme using muted tones of mustard, navy and bronze. Traditional style prints seemed to pay homage to country side Portugal. 




Sofia Macedo

Centred on white this designer created interest throughout the collection with texture. Gathering and rouching followed the contours of the body. Soft tailoring flattered the form with a very feminine approach. A feisty touch in the collection saw metallics, sheer fabrics and the use of cut out sections. 



Catarina Oliveira

Taking the show back to the street this collection used laser cut latex and flashes of neon yellow in oversized hoodies and casually cool menswear. An all in one jump suit was slashed across the torso creating an edgy feeling. A favouriting from the collection was an almost translucent rubber rainmac covered in lazer cut square holes. 




Caterina Ferreira

Back to school themes with oversized jumpers, large pockets and clerical, high collars combined a ditsy multi coloured animal print with chiffon pleated skirts. Layering was key throughout with a selection of black PVC rain macs making up the final element. 



Hibu

The design trio HIBU used a variety of influences,threaded tied seams contrasted with rounded shoulders, modern, wide lapels and the collection accessorised throughout with oversized acrylic brightly coloured earpieces. The fabrics also contrasted throughout, from starched cotton, soft mottled jersey to flowing satin. 
Layers through the legs created skirted shorts in men and women's wear, while jersey inserts at the waist band added to loose fitting trousers. Arm holes wear set back or ignored completely in some cases. 



Rentata Bernardo 

Primarily focused on ladies knitwear this collection showed the designers skill for creating structure with chunky knit. Asymmetric hem lines created an interesting collection and a sure favourite was a well structured, ribbed white hooded gillet. 
Of course the only problem with this selection of knitwear is that the season showing is currently SS14 - this was helped with the cropped nature of the jumpers and the loose knit.



20/25

This was undoubtedly one of my favourite new designers in the show. The ethnic style print in bold primary colours sat alongside modern lines and a structured silhouette. Black high waisted trousers were trimmed with oversized white piping, an example of the use of colour to accentuated the human form. There was a feeling of contrast between ethnic values and the western consumerism states... I may have been reading too much into this.  


Cláudia Mendes

Using a wonderful hand drawn, monochrome print this designer used casual, wide lines stretching from the body and creating structure. Collarless shirt dresses accessorised with draw strings and functional utility elements all featured the beautiful print and gave the collection it's young, sporting feel. The final outfit was a quilted jacket that had structured circular sleeves.



Olga Noronha

Chosen to close the show with a bang the designer of jewellery and body wear encased the models in all-in-one white plain body suit.  This covered the head and featured only the designers logo at the base of the spine to distract from the creations. The overall effect was pretty terrifying and a little eery! 
With a model using a walking stick the designer seemed to take inspiration from medical body corrections. Plastic splints held to the knee of one limping model while a neck brace in glimmering gold held the models head aloft along with a waist clincher in white plastic and gold. The plastic elements were created in a flesh tone so that they almost looked like stolen parts of a mannequin. 
There was a fairly interesting contrast between the gold creations and the poorer skin coloured ones, showing the models as rich and poor.




The young designers put on a fantastic show, we now have an idea of who to watch in the Portuguese fashion scene!!


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