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Friday, 25 October 2013

WIGWAMBAM Opening - Queen of Hoxton

The Queen of Hoxton bar 'A youth club for adults on the east side' last night re-launched their #WigWamBam.

Basically it's a wigwam on the roof over looking East London. The opening featured a fabulous, sizzling fire pit and drinks all round showing off the new menu.

Including a range of divine hot drinks including: mulled pumpkin spiced cider, 'Cheeky Chocolate Monkey' (hot chocolate with whiskey) and hot buttered rum. Not to mention a delightful hot gin punch. And yes, we sampled all of them plus a plateful of rustic food. "That red cabbage has a kick!"

The beautiful surroundings, fire pits, marshmallows and fairy lights are a charming combination, beautiful and v trendy (topknots EVERYWHERE) but the practicality of it is a little different.

The delicious drinks were a touch cloying and the fire pits blinding, not to mention that today my coat smells like I've been sleeping in a park next to a bin fire.

This is a great option to begin a night out or to have a chilled few drinks, maybe even a date - the views over the city romantic.

Whatever you do, DO NOT wear anything you don't want to smell like smoke.




 

Valentim Quaresma - Moda Lisboa

Known for his incredible re-use of reclaimed items, Valentim Quaresma created a collection of not-so-work-safe body jewellery. Covering the face, shoulders and upper torso, the collection spoke of a mythical league of warriors and kings (Game of Thrones fo life.) 
Eastern influences were clear through the delicate chain link face masks. 



Thursday, 24 October 2013

Sangue Novo - ModaLisboa


Opening Moda Lisboa (FashionWeek Lisbon) this week, the selection of young Portuguese designers showcased the diverse range of new talent emerging on the Portugese fashion scene. With ModaLisboa's core designers not changing much throughout the years this addition of new talent was exciting for everyone. 

These new designers were given the opportunity to show to National and International press in the very public Praça do Município  (the square in front of the town hall for us Brits) where the passing public and locals stopped to admire the show. 

Joaquim Correia

This short collection showed the designers skill and ingenuity over ready-to-wear values. The collection was made seemingly entirely of hand-crafted latex. Mottled fleshy pink and sky blue was contrasted with white while texture was key - one fabric appeared to have been flattened during creation while another featured capillary-like ridges. The silhouette was loose fitting and hung away from the body with strong lines. 
Considering that to dry latex you have to leave it for up to 24 hours this collection showed great dedication to fashion. 



Filipa Gomes

A rustic collection that tarnished the garments with bleaching at the seams. The colours and fabrics also followed the theme using muted tones of mustard, navy and bronze. Traditional style prints seemed to pay homage to country side Portugal. 




Sofia Macedo

Centred on white this designer created interest throughout the collection with texture. Gathering and rouching followed the contours of the body. Soft tailoring flattered the form with a very feminine approach. A feisty touch in the collection saw metallics, sheer fabrics and the use of cut out sections. 



Catarina Oliveira

Taking the show back to the street this collection used laser cut latex and flashes of neon yellow in oversized hoodies and casually cool menswear. An all in one jump suit was slashed across the torso creating an edgy feeling. A favouriting from the collection was an almost translucent rubber rainmac covered in lazer cut square holes. 




Caterina Ferreira

Back to school themes with oversized jumpers, large pockets and clerical, high collars combined a ditsy multi coloured animal print with chiffon pleated skirts. Layering was key throughout with a selection of black PVC rain macs making up the final element. 



Hibu

The design trio HIBU used a variety of influences,threaded tied seams contrasted with rounded shoulders, modern, wide lapels and the collection accessorised throughout with oversized acrylic brightly coloured earpieces. The fabrics also contrasted throughout, from starched cotton, soft mottled jersey to flowing satin. 
Layers through the legs created skirted shorts in men and women's wear, while jersey inserts at the waist band added to loose fitting trousers. Arm holes wear set back or ignored completely in some cases. 



Rentata Bernardo 

Primarily focused on ladies knitwear this collection showed the designers skill for creating structure with chunky knit. Asymmetric hem lines created an interesting collection and a sure favourite was a well structured, ribbed white hooded gillet. 
Of course the only problem with this selection of knitwear is that the season showing is currently SS14 - this was helped with the cropped nature of the jumpers and the loose knit.



20/25

This was undoubtedly one of my favourite new designers in the show. The ethnic style print in bold primary colours sat alongside modern lines and a structured silhouette. Black high waisted trousers were trimmed with oversized white piping, an example of the use of colour to accentuated the human form. There was a feeling of contrast between ethnic values and the western consumerism states... I may have been reading too much into this.  


Cláudia Mendes

Using a wonderful hand drawn, monochrome print this designer used casual, wide lines stretching from the body and creating structure. Collarless shirt dresses accessorised with draw strings and functional utility elements all featured the beautiful print and gave the collection it's young, sporting feel. The final outfit was a quilted jacket that had structured circular sleeves.



Olga Noronha

Chosen to close the show with a bang the designer of jewellery and body wear encased the models in all-in-one white plain body suit.  This covered the head and featured only the designers logo at the base of the spine to distract from the creations. The overall effect was pretty terrifying and a little eery! 
With a model using a walking stick the designer seemed to take inspiration from medical body corrections. Plastic splints held to the knee of one limping model while a neck brace in glimmering gold held the models head aloft along with a waist clincher in white plastic and gold. The plastic elements were created in a flesh tone so that they almost looked like stolen parts of a mannequin. 
There was a fairly interesting contrast between the gold creations and the poorer skin coloured ones, showing the models as rich and poor.




The young designers put on a fantastic show, we now have an idea of who to watch in the Portuguese fashion scene!!


Wednesday, 23 October 2013

RICARDO ANDREZ - Moda Lisboa

 
Ricardo Andrez is well known for his functional menswear with it's unconventional use of utility elements as such the commercial featured of this collection came as a little surprising. Following summer nautical trends we saw navy stripes and fishnet set in random panelled patterns. Panels across the body were both functional and flattering while geometric sections in the mesh seemed to reflect a well used fishing net. 
In homage to hosting nautical flags, napkins of complementing fabrics we're tied around the knees to create the appearance of layers. Crazy white goggles were dropped into the collection with flashes of turquoise combining all the elements with a trend. Asked white. 
Keeping the collection very much in the cool side of commercial and taking nautical trends to a whole new level we saw dropped crotches and added pockets meeting the audiences expectations of the designer. 


OS BURGUESES - Moda Lisboa

Fresh and fun, making tailoring lighthearted the collection opened with a large, fruity, banana print accessorised with head wraps and blocks of turquoise. The lining of a tapered dress flashed red satin at the audience while a gentleman in low rise shorts flashed a lot more! 
The womenswear nipped in at the waist and flattered, while high necklines added a bit of class! The addition of ruffles through the body kept the collection very young and flirty.
A red fruity print was also used, making me crave Um Bungo before we saw golden PVC and ruffled bikini made an appearance before the finale, where the models held bananas to their ears. Well, why not?
The mixture between obviously crazy prints and well made designs made this collection fabulous and charming. 




RICARDO DOURADO - Moda Lisboa

With prints ranging from anatomical animal skeletons to Japanese style traditional waves and kaleidoscope blue this was a great collection from Ricardo Dourado. In the past his collections have pushed boundaries and tried exciting new shapes and fabrics. This collection however seemed to tone down the wild experiments a little and instead worked with shape and print. 
The colours varied from a bleached white to a baby pink, back through neon yellow as well as metallic elements. 
Curved cut outs featured and tabard layers were cut with curved edges. Oriental themes again seemed to take some form in the collection. 
Maintaining the street cool, for which the designer has become known, sleeves were layered or featured cut outs, zips were exposed, short legs tapered and the silhouette wide and baggy with structure through the shoulders. 

Ricardo Dourado provided another fresh collection and is still a firm favourite of mine!! 



DINO ALVES - Moda Lisboa

The Dino Alves collection was accompanied by insane make up, highly contoured faces with clown like splashes of colour across the entire face. 
The collection also featured these flashes of bright colour in child like pinafore separates and contrasting panels. Checked panels of fabric we're used throughout along with high tailored necklines, peplums and visible zips along the torso and across the body.  Rectangles of fabric and the harsh positioning of the fabrics made this look like a very creative school project gone awry!! 
Flowing peplums at the side of the body and behind the shoulders added elegance and structure to an otherwise facile collection. 
The use of colours, tabard like flaps and different shapes was key to this collection creating overall a very interesting, obviously skilful, if not a little confusing, show. 



KAMIL SOBCZYK - Moda Lisboa

A guest designer from Poland this collection showed the differences between the two fashion scenes. 
The flowing shapes and sophisticated ladies of Lisboa were replaced with the streetwise gals of Warsaw (or Lodz, Krakow... My geography is pretty bad.).

Modern, sophisticate and sexy, this collection opened with tight white silhouettes, a low slashing neckline and glimmering studs. 
Contrasting panels of black and white were prevalent through out - a monochrome body illusion dress with angular geometric panels was a firm favourite.
Flashes of royal blue and yellow worked through the collection, the soft yellow hardened by ribbed panels, eyelets and black leather inserts. Sheer fabrics were used throughout men and womenswear as well as the black contrasting panelling.
The collection featured edgy pieces that worked well with wearable trends - naughty, rock and roll men and elusive, bad-ass ladies. 




(My favourite outfit for sure was the men's white and black jacket, plus check out those awesome ribbed knee padded trousers!!) 



CIA MARITIMA - Moda Lisboa


This collection of swimwear seemed to attempt, this season, to push the boundaries between swimwear, beachwear and surf wear. 
Long sleeved bikini crop tops with matching briefs were followed by high neck, archer back swim suits. The colours staying bright in amber, magenta and cobalt went through a range of prints including a retro geometric stripe as well as animal prints. 
The geometric stripes and shapes were complimented by acrylic jewellery cut into diamonds and triangles in a range of bold colours. 
This collection showed a range of new exciting ideas in swimwear with cut outs, sleeves, extra straps and high waists.


ALEXANDRA MOURA - Moda Lisboa

Alexandra Moura's show was accessorised by half cut straw hats strapped under the chin, a fresh country vibe. Following the theme that clashed paddy field country with urban cool we saw wet look satin with casually dropped waists toting laser cut prints.
Jaquered white and yellow oversized boyfriend jackets were slung over the top of loose fitting separated and wide legged trousers.  Off-the-wall elements such as out-of-sleeve arm holes and dropped waists brought this collection into the current season. 

Stark white, a clear trend this coming season was incorporated in the wide set casual tailoring which was reminiscent of an oriental farm. 

The collection finished with a tone of mustard through men and womens wear - wide legs and oversized silhouettes. 



MIGUEL VIEIRA - Moda Lisboa

Still working the luxurious boating chic that the label has become famous for, the collection opened with mint and white, the leafy print introducing natural themes. Huge, jewelled embellishments sparkled across the body accentuating the prints. Peach and red on a sharp white showed in tailoring, the prints adding a youthful air to otherwise sophisticated silhouettes  low cut neck lines and bias cut asymmetric, pencil skirts. Silk satin with threading prints dotted with jewels continued the organic influences in the collection, moving away from yacht side chic and leaning towards a fabulous country retreat. Dresses, trousers and jackets were cut quite severely using tailored influences while the softer lines of separates and blouses in chiffon and satin flattered the feminine form more.  Icy white was complimented by navy and grey to take the collection through to more embellishment in black evening wear. Menswear followed and complimented the womens wear with neckerchiefs, ankle skimming chinos and beautiful tailoring.




To completely win over the audience Miguel Vieira showed his new children’s collection, the levels of estrogen suddenly rocketed as the little darlings tottered down the catwalk in white lace, layered tea dresses and the cutest hooded casual wear. Using children to drive the crowds wild was a very good plan. Also a male model helping one of the kids out pretty much rendered the entire FROW’s female population pregnant.



Bravo Vieira, Bravo!

NUNO GAMA - ModaLisboa

Undoubtedly one of my favourite shows, Nuno Gama succeeded in hiring 69 (wink, wink, nudge nudge!) of Portugal’s hottest men to walk in his show. A big shout out to my 3 friends in the show, Miguel, Francisco and Ricardo! 



(I don’t know who the guy with the tattoos is but he’s fucking beautiful and worth a photo!)

 

The collection was obviously influenced by traditional Portuguese patterned porcelain and willow pattern blue. The models wore porcelain hats moulded in side swept hair styles with fitted suits and stunning use of royal blue and navy contrasted with white.

The addition of red later in the collection created a nautical feel however the sophisticated, gentlemanly suits with their oh-so-chic oversized bow ties were the winners in this collection. Cropped city shorts lightened the collection and cooled it down for the summer.

Of course after the beautiful tailoring and casual menswear, as it is Summer collections, we saw the swimwear. There were blue pants and more 6-packs than you can shake a stick at. Cue hundreds of hyperventilating fashionistas.




Thank you Nuno: again, a spectacular collection with beautiful traditional influences, real men and eye candy.



SAYMYNAME - ModaLisboa

Designer SayMyName's show opened with dusty pink and high shine, leatherette panels striping diagonally across the body.

The PVC continued through entire dresses and trim before transforming into a glittering blue royal PVC. The bias cut dresses were gathered at the waist and through the neck wrapping the figure. Shorts with skirted fronts added an edge of androgyny. A triangular print appeared in the collection mixing with stark white PVC jackets and skirts. Visible zips across the body were left open to flash strips of flesh. The models heads were painted turquoise in an almost ethnic design.

The collection used a range of textures with gathered bias cut shapes that hugged the figure on one hand and swamped it on the other.




Saturday, 19 October 2013

Luis Carvalho - ModaLisboa



Opening the collection with a rather spectacular navy maxi dress accessorised with a bomber jacket slung over the shoulders. Flashes of silver opalescent PVC were layered beneath the stronger navy blue. A cloudy galaxy print was featured which seemed a little late. The shapes were interesting, a mixture between traditional luxury and more modern touches such as layered shorts.  A full pair of PVC leather trousers graced the catwalk worn with a very 90's cropped top which erred on the side of 'too much'.


The collection was fresh, young but also sophisticated, a wonderful addition to the roster at Moda Lisboa.

Marques Almeida - Moda Lisboa


The collection was a total throwback to the early noughties.
Flared denim jeans, riding low on the hips worn with chiffon vest tops used tones of green, pink and purple. 

Following the early noughties western theme in the line of Shania Twain or early Shakira music videos, we saw the addition of cow hide. Spotted hide and frayed denim continued until the collection ended with white denim. 

This is a clear sign of the cycle of fashion but also homage to the booming days
of blue denim and western themes!

PEDRO PEDRO - Moda Lisboa


WIth oriental influences clear from the start this white collection used textured satin to create the sophisticated collection. Stark white dresses were split to the thigh with flashes of sheer fabrics. Shimmering Silk/Satin and metallic organza created mid calf skirts which fitted snuggly to the figure while cape jackets hung further away from the body.
The final pieces featured a feminine floral print that took us back to a forgotten time of doilies and dusting tea cups. Teal, white and grey were the main colours used throughout the collection.

Across the body satchel bags accessoried the collection and added an edge of modern practicality.


WHITE TENT - Moda Lisboa

White Tent have perviously shown collections entirely of jersey but this collection showed the label growing up and outwards.  Mottled, bleached prints in loose fitting tshirt dresses with wide sleeves tapering to the wrist. Tapered hems and caped layers followed the
previous collection's styles and shapes. Peplums added extra interest and denim was used in wide elasticated waist bands and casual dropped waists.


NUNO BALTHAZAR - Moda Lisboa

Creating extravagant feminine silhouettes with waterfalling a-line skirts and nipped in waists the Nuno Baltazar collection was stunning.
Featuring pleated peplums, textured fabrics, stark white and glorious gold.

Sophisticated, adult and threaded with gold and silver foil the satin finishes glimmered opulently while sparkling headdresses accessorised the collection.
Contrasting with the traditional shapes the use of asymmetric structure modernised the whole collection. 
I loved the mixture of jaquered luxury and modern minimalism.

RICARDO PRETO - Moda Lisboa

Opening with a waterfall jacket this collection used casual tailoring in white, grey and blue. The embellishment used was a sparkling mix of multi coloured beads that looked like vintage extras.   

The vintage feeling continued with an 80's vibe, the prints geometric and faded.
The prints and soft colours transformed into bold turquoise trimmed with red and bleached, kaleidoscope prints in casual shorts.
The tailoring was mixed with cropped tops, oversized vests and casual separates to keep the collection current .

ALEKSANDAR PROTIC - Moda Lisboa

Grey linen combined with black leatherette panelling sat with dropped waists, visible zips and curved lapels this was a very laid back collection. 
90's minimalism and halter neck dresses in satin showed a certain elegance, fighting the brash, shiny leather.  The collection moved through a spectrum of blue and grey bias cut garments trimmed with black.

Saturday, 5 October 2013

Collette Dinnigan - Paris Fashion Week


An early morning start was sweetened by the croissants and treats provided to guests before the show began. Yup, I'm that easy!

Beginning with mainly white the looks merged city cool with feminine elegance. With Broderie Englaise and delicate laser cutting the hem lines blossomed. The feminine collection was almost ethereal using pastel tones with only the occasional flags of bolder colour. Stripping the femme back to timely classics the look was elegant but girlish. 
Jewels added an air of luxury to the collection as did the addition of  floral embellishment and appliqué. 
A beautiful collection truly with spring and summer in mind. 


Wednesday, 2 October 2013

Hexa by Kuho - Paris Fashion Week SS14


Under the burning catwalk lights in a dank warehouse space the Hexa Collection took to the runway. Sport influences were a theme throughout the entire collection - tight tailored shorts with geometric panelling bridged the difference between casual and chic. The press release, offered some insight to the look of style feminine warrior. Using strong structure, it's base in Traditional Korean costume, the collection came to life. Plastic armour was donned, tight at the waist and the nude tones adding a subtle femininity to the show. 
Opening with all white the palette moved through jet black, bright lilac and navy before finishing with khaki tones decorated with gold foil. 
The feminine  themes were emphasised with the use of a traditional flower motif that also formed delicate nubs on the 'armour'. 
Wide set shoulders and elegant cut out arm holes added to the sporting feel as well as the use of mesh panels, net and utilitarian fabrics. 

The hair in this show was beautifully crafted with two tight twists along the head holding a plastic hair band in place, dropping between the eyes and again adding to the warrior chic.

The final pieces with the enhanced femininity were stunning, especially flowing maxi skits with thigh high splits and severe pleating.


A fabulous collection that only occasionally verged on a little wintry.