Tuesday, 19 March 2013

Style Shots - Lisbon

Yup, this is basically a cringey list of what I wore this season in Lisbon. Mainly people are going to be appalled that they told me I looked good in high street steals, 80's vintage bargains and generally crap but occasionally well styled clothes.
Day 1.

I decided that looking classy for at least the first day was a good idea. Plus this skirt hid the massive gash in my knee from falling over the week before. Of course by 3am the following morning I had fallen over again after these darling shoes got caught between the cobbles of Lisbon. (And because I had been drinking and had less control over my limbs.) 
Jacket - Sample - Pied a Terre
Skirt and Belt - Vintage, Paris
Shoes -

Day 2.

Ah yes, the day I woke up 2 hours late and did my make up in the back of a car and therefore didn't apply my black geisha lips as the original plan was. Stupid. I LOVE these flatforms with all my heart and only fell out of them once getting over-excited about a packet of crisps. 

 Shoes - Ego and Greed
Socks - Japan
Dress - Matalan
Jacket - Republic (Customised in Paris by the always awesome Blair Chivers)

Day 3.

So I took a little turn on the catwalk and it was mortifying. Fun, but probably the single most terrifying moment of my life. Plus I came out of the entrance the wrong way. Who says a model's job is easy? Not me. Anymore. 
 Jacket and Dress - V!tor
Shoes - Adidas

This day I felt like looking like a Victorian doll which would have worked far better if I had my black heels with me not a pair of trainers. Pssh. You'll also be pleased to hear that directly before this lovely photograph was taken I stuffed my face with an entire platter of Vegetarian Sushi. It looks like I may have over done it slightly. 

Dress and Jacket - Vintage, Paris
Trainers - Kurt Geiger (I left my heels at the hotel, like an idiot) and ASOS (later in the evening)

Oh and another big up to my lovely Vitor - on my last day in Lisbon I went to see my boy wearing my last seasons V!tor cat top (well, obviously it was a dress on the model...) and picked up my even cooler V!tor AW13/14 bomber jacket! 

Tuesday, 12 March 2013

Vitor - ModaLisboa - Trust

The Vitor show was a nerve wracking on for me. As I was wearing a dress on the runway.
The prints are based on mythical creatures and a favourite of these is a flying shrimp. Not to mention a three eyed pug, a fat shiva cat, grumpy cat and a unicorn!!
Sea shells, jailhouse stripes and hand drawn creatures, oh and a mural of my face, were splashed on oversized jersey dresses and t-shirts.

Nuno Gama - ModaLisboa - Trust

Opening with models holding beautiful puppies the collection started well! Featuring double breasted jackets in muted tones of navy and brown the Numo Gama show is always easy on the eye. A traditional looking print based on red was used through shirts, patchwork jumpers and jackets. Another print that featured was of a decahedron topped with the Nuno Gama symbol.
Tweed and cable knit were shown throughout with chunky oversized scarves. This contrasted with the slick tailoring with oversized red silk bow ties and triangle printed collars. Cropped suit jackets were worn in velvet over brocade and paisley waistcoats. Outerwear featured high, fox fur collars.
The finale featured the famous Nuno Gama models, shirtless in tailored trousers taking to the runway. Mmmmm. Finally Nuno Gama came to the catwalk with a brood of puppies as well as his gorgeous, new mum dog.

Filipe Faisca - ModaLisboa - Trust

Portuguese wool hats accessorise this collection which was a chic show of brown satin, wide sleeves and rounded shoulders.
Jackets zipped through the front with chunky metal zips. Leather and tartan in a maroony brown were accessorised with ski goggles and knee high tights over pointed stilettos - a bit of a shoe malfunction perhaps? Another surprising colour used was a lemon yellow with green stripes. The structured shoulders of jackets were seamless and looked incredibly well cut while wool and felt fell into drapes artfully.

Fur bands slashed horizontally across dresses and widened the silhouette across the hips.

The collection finished with the models sitting on the catwalk while the designer weaved between them.

Filipe Faisca - ModaLisboa - Trust

Portuguese wool hats accessorise this collection which was a chic show of brown satin, wide sleeves and rounded shoulders.
Jackets zipped through the front with chunky metal zips. Leather and tartan in a maroony brown were accessorised with ski goggles and knee high tights over pointed stilettos - a bit of a shoe malfunction perhaps? Another surprising colour used was a lemon yellow with green stripes. The structured shoulders of jackets were seamless and looked incredibly well cut while wool and felt fell into drapes artfully.

Fur bands slashed horizontally across dresses and widened the silhouette across the hips.

The collection finished with the models sitting on the catwalk while the designer weaved between them.

Miguel Vieira - ModaLisboa - Trust

Miguel Vieira showed a chic collection - white tailoring and outerwear with splashes of gun
metal sequins. Peter pan collars encrusted with sparkles topped white pencil dresses while black dresses draped across the chest looked classy and grown up.
Menswear was also painfully chic- White suits with khaki polka dots and grey tailoring plus a grey rose print which was very cute.
Silhouettes were smooth and tight, jumpsuits featured wide legs and necklines featured sexy slits showing flashes of flesh!
The collection was Accessorised with snake skin shoes and '25' gold necklaces. Snakeskin print was also seen in buttonless jackets and flared trousers.

The chunky snake skin platform shoes bore a minty turquoise sole and gold tassels.

The collection finished with pairs of models walking the catwalk in a display of couples that we will never be as attractive as.

White Tent - ModaLisboa - Trust

White Tent began the show with army print in grey and blue with soft inserts. Grey jersey was spiced up with a touch of glitter and drawstring added interest to jersey pieces. Heavy satin was embossed with army shapes, the same print used through out the collection.
Lime green peplum shirts and sand colour blocking added to the mix of colours and texture.
Caped sleeves and tops were perfect for a winter collection although the use of a sheer blue fabrics seemed a little too spring/summer.

Dino Alves- ModaLisboa - Trust

A class of young school children opened this collection sitting in rows in the middle of the runway reading a book. This indicated that we were likely to be seeing something about education and the alphabet prints that we're used confirmed this. Starched cotton and men's shorts and shirts buttoned to the throat added to this feeling of a school based collection - multi layered square collars and trim looked like pages of a book.
The pleats that were regularly used were also reminiscent of school skirts while caped jackets with rounded sleeves were based upon school master robes.
Colours used included maroon, sand and navy with hints of grey and black- stark white contrasted throughout the collection.

I'm not sure what Dino Alves was trying to say about education but the collection showed the theme clearly, the child props not really needed but a welcome excitement!

Ricardo Preto - ModaLisboa - Trust

Ricardo Pretos show was more of a spectacle than a runway show. The catwalk was laid with bare branches and soil while dry ice pumped out of the backstage ensuring a that as little of the collection was seen as possible.

Chunky knitwear in red, white and muted tones was seen through the clouds as were tones of mustard in double breasted sleeveless jackets. Caped outerwear in red started the collection well but the use of satin in backless, halter neck tops and dresses seemed to confuse the season.
Swirling prints, chunky knitwear and patchwork style details gave this collection a very rural feeling, the woodland setting reminding me of Grimms fairy tales.

Nuno Balthazar - ModaLisboa - Trust

Nuno Balthazars collection started as expected with oversized sunglasses, leather gloves and cinched waists.
Jumpsuits in black with flared legs were seen and short sleeves were structured. Tones of nude began to be used with black - a tried and tested colour palette. Green and berry brocade added colour to the collection and a mixed gold fabric added glitter - all making me think of Christmas!
Classic shapes and cuts such as the traditional double breasted trench coat/mac were twisted with the addition of structured shoulders, draped high necklines and caped jackets using slits for armholes.
A sophisticated collection for the classic femme looking for a bit of excitement!

Alexandra Moura - Modalisboa - Trust

Piling hair on top of the head of models and held in place with an oriental style stuck the collection was accessorised fiercely.
Orange faux fur, black leather and nude tones set the tone for the collection as texture was played with throughout. Triangular sleeves that created a hard silhouette were seen throughout as was loose crushed velvet and a comfy looking fleece which softened this look. Colours, prints and fabrics all screamed of the 1970s. Rouching and draping softened looks as the show continued despite the use of mock croc fabrics and gold, warrior like accessories.
The collection was incredibly androgynous, baggy outerwear and wide sleeves not offering any relief for the figure however menswear seemed a little more regal with the use of velvet trousers and roll neck jumpers.

Pedro Pedro - ModaLisboa - Trust

The Pedro Pedro collection was very sophisticated and grown up - opening with tones of sandy and grey in leather and wool. Hem lines sat low, oversized outerwear over long black skirts, split at the front. Strips of leather ran through eyelets adding extra detail to the otherwise quite basic collection.
Squared off lapels in contrasting tones also added interest to rounded, soft outerwear as did triangular openings at the front of skirts and jumpers.

Monday, 11 March 2013

Os Burgueses - ModaLisboa - Trust

Opening the show with the sound of a female orgasming was certainly an entertaining beginning. The audience were handed blue LED lights and the room was darkened as the first two outfits came out.
Men's trousers were pleated across the front and white tailored shirts were printed with back images.
V shaped Panels and geometric seams in jersey roll necks were worn with tight tailored trousers. The print that was used then was a scrawled image of sex acts which contrasted with the ink blot print that showed in the dark and suggested a psychological link and repressed sexuality. Kinky! The use of tasselled fringing, leather, metal trim and all black collection also hinted at a bondage theme underlying.
Quilted bomber jackets, silver feature zips and leather gave this collection a rock and roll edge in its monotone palette.

Aleksandar Protnic - ModaLisboa - Trust

Structured triangular shoulders opened this collection in pure white. The models necks were wrapped and the shoes were beautiful ruffled affairs.
Caped shoulders and leather trims in pure white, black, brown dog tooth and tight cropped trousers held dominance in this collection.

The Structuring was created with strong and obvious seams making geometric panels throughout the collection.

SayMyName - Moda Lisboa - Trust

SayMyName used a great mix of fabrics in their collection. The first coated fabric glistened in the lights and was worn with jersey and satin floral prints.

Neoprene created structured outerwear in nude with black piping. Quilted metallic bomber jackets were also shown with their wide, rounded sleeves and slit cut armholes.

Moving from the original colour palette of black, brown and berry light grey jersey and pale pink made up active wear with drawstring details and sheer panels.
Although the mixes of fabrics and colours were unexpected it combine to make a great consistent collection.

Luis Buchinho - ModaLisboa - Trust

Luis Buchinhos collection opened with red, black and white - slick, simple and gorgeous as always.
Wool and leather owned the catwalk and draped outerwear dominated as well as interesting structure and trapeze shapes. Satin with messy looking prints in red and black created seperates.
The colours moved from red, white an black to a berry leather and grey.

Ricardo Dourado - ModaLisboa - Trust - AW2013/14

Ricardo Dourado's collection favoured neoprene as a core fabric. Printed with African inspired prints the strong oriental shapes the collection used a newly popular neoprene to great effect creating bold structure.
Opening with white laser cut outerwear, laced with rectangular holes and accessorised with garish green and blue trainers.
Draped rounded sleeves gave way to chunky panels of fur laced with satin and khaki tiger print in fur.
Traditional African inspired prints covered lapels of jackets and dresses while oriental necklines and pointed shoulders suggested eastern influences which were also channelled in the stylised embossed prints.
Contrasting wonderfully with the structure was creative draped matt silk satin creations, feminine and gorgeous but with functional utility details such as drawstrings.

Menswear used quilted panels on the knee below over sized jackets with exposed seams and chunky metal zips.

Tones of khaki were shown throughout with the occasional use of teal and berry red.

This collection bore the strong colours and structure that is signature of the designer.

Valentim Quaresma - Moda Lisboa - Trust

The opening show of modalisboa was from LAB designer Valentim Quaresma.
The structural jewellery was worn with leather leggings over bare chests. Coins adorned chest plates - a representation of the tough times that the Portuguese economy is facing.

Leather amour wrapped shoulders with strong organic shapes and copper touches. The body was adorned with words hinting at the idea of Day Dreaming.
The industrial themes were conceptual and creative - a breath of fresh air opening ModaLisoa.

Ptaszek - Moda Lisboa - Trust

Our guest designer from Poland this season is Ptaszek. The men's collection used a palette of dark colours - navy with splashes of bleached rust. The collection represented a trip to the Nordic sea.
Mixing fabrics was key, chunky cable knit was worn with leather and dirty looking prints that created a scuffed, deconstructed collection.
Layers and draped jackets added structure and modernised classic shapes. Wide sleeves and rounded shoulders softened an otherwise quite harsh collection.

Black, navy, rust and splashes of white continued throughout the collection and was accessorised with beanie hats.

Ricardo Andrez - Moda Lisboa - Trust - AW13/14

Ricardo Andrez's menswear collection was a mix of utilitarian cool and urban luxury. Fabrics mixed smoothly throughout including chunky cable knit, tartan, jersey and man-made sports looks. Blocking textures instead of colour was effective and provided an interesting twist to an otherwise straightforward collection. Quilting was seen as well as large plastic zips, accessorised with ski gloves.
The basic colour palettes of nude, black and flashes of muted colour was consistent throughout.

Friday, 8 March 2013

Valentin Yudashkin AW2012/13

This show is always a fabulous spectacle of opulence and over decoration and this season did not disappoint! Held at the VERY fancy Hotel Westin close to Tulleries the gold leaf decor in the salon room suited the designer's grand designs.
Opening with fabulous layers of tailoring in white, icy blue and cream. The dazzling power suits, interlaced with flashes of silver and a pastel colour palette was accessorised with panels of luxurious fur while sequins and jewels trimmed garments. High waists and a line skirts channelled the 50’s while power dressing suits hinted at the bourgeois classes of the 1980’s. The full collection held onto a motif of an ice queen – beautiful, painfully feminine and mysterious.
A snowflake motif was shown sparingly leaving the themes open to interpretation.
Jackets were buttonless and tied at the waist with brocade rope adding to the elegant appeal. Capes and muffs reminded onlookers of the designers Russian roots while the excessive use of fur and jeweling screamed of stereotypical Russian upper classes of the past.
Textures built through fur were also deconstructed with panels of sheer lace and knitted broderie anglaise.
The dainty wiggle dresses and feminine themes descended into sexy, daring evening wear at an alarming rate. For a sparkle lover, like myself, this section of the collection was breathtaking.
Sheer dresses completely covered in jewels sashayed down the runway, shoulders spiked with silver, thigh high side splits and off the shoulder boudoir wiggle dresses, became the norm. Rouched taffeta and satin dazzled completely covered in heavenly bling softened only by the pom-pom earrings that accessorised the entire collection.

I am a big fan of Valentin Yudashkin and LOVE his Russian winter styles – always providing a stunning, opulent collection proving that less is not always more. 

Costume National – Paris Fashion Week – AW2013/14

The minimalist walls and open spaces of Palais de Tokyo provided the perfect backdrop for the Autumn/Winter collection from Costume National. Androgynous chic stormed the catwalk in a flurry of 1990’s throwbacks, minimal suits and over worked tailoring.  The press release claimed that this collection was for real women however none of the pieces I saw would suit a fuller figure, except a cape which would cover the figure from shoulder to hip.
The colour palette revolved around black, white, midnight blue and a maroon-berry.  Tailoring was spiced up with slit arm holes, split sleeves and slashing low V necklines. Skirts were layered over trousers with shirts and jackets and the layers seemed key to the collection. White leather bodices and a structured roll neck rocked up the collection while the use of eco-fur added to texture. Leather trimmed capes and  jackets and silhouettes varied. Wide legged trousers and baggy waistlines gave way to bodices and tailored peplum shirts.
This wasn’t a visually stimulating collection for me BUT the themes were clear and the tailoring was impressive. The collection was entirely chic and consistent.

Thursday, 7 March 2013

Jean Paul Gaultier - Paris Fashion Week - AW2013

The Jean Paul Gaultier show was a surprise ticket for us this season and quite a treat! Held at Salle Wagram a beautiful function area (where I may or may not have fallen face first down a flight of stairs last season...) with incredible opulent decor, chandeliers and dark wood. The space was transformed with a huge T shaped catwalk taking over the ballroom. The T shape catwalk which later caused problems for models who all clearly forgot their rehearsal, bumped into each other and angered the photographers.

The collection opened with structure leather. High round necks sat across the face, lapels of long sweeping jackets studded with eyelets and metal zips.
Horizontal bands of fur slashed across the torso adding elegant structure to off the shoulder power dressing. Patch work metallics and fur were a throwback to the 1980's while the use of high necks and metallic leather spoke of futuristic themes, the sharp lines creating a battle of eras. even the 1970s seemed to be fighting for its place on the runway in colour alone.
Sheer pleated fabrics bled from the leather jackets swirling around models in a range of prints- bronze, red, black and orange were prominent.
Later in the collection the evening wear became fractured with patchworks of metallic sequins and leather taking the floor while fur was still a theme.

Tartan was also seen in purple double breasted suits while a scruffy tweed like fabric was also shown.
The mix of prints, fabrics and styles were intoxicating and created a riveting collection.

Better pictures to follow!

Check out the video :