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Sunday, 3 February 2013

ModaLisboa - Fashion Week Lisbon - Spring Summer 2013 Trends



Spring/Summer 2013 is fast approaching and although Europe has been swept away in a deluge of snow and rain the show must go on.

ModaLisboa’s 39th edition titled ‘Pulse’ took place just days after Paris Fashion Week in the beautiful and vibrant city of Lisbon. The fashion week hosts a range of spectacular, well established Portuguese designers as well as a range of new, up-and-coming designers. The show also includes a guest designer from Poland – well known fashion brand MMC Studios.


I was lucky enough to visit the fashion week for the 3rd time (not to mention a few trips out there in between!)
Despite Portugal’s fashion scene not being as detrimental to the face of fashion as say, Paris, the fashion week is building a firm reputation and the trends that emerge can be seen spreading through the hoards of fashion hungry attendees. They also often mirror popular trends throughout Europe and Brazil.
When it comes to fashion, Brazil is Portugal’s stylish older sister – the fashion economy there is booming and it seems to be only the difficult import/export/customs situation that is holding the country back. While Portugal as a country has its share of problems the fashion scene is blossoming at an alarming rate! 



Colour pop / Acid Trips
We are never surprised to see bold colours make their way into Summer trends however this season took colour to a whole new level of psychedelic with a range of designers choosing fleuro tones. Os Burgueses introduced colour early into the sexy collection with green, coral orange, pink and yellow flashes of bold colour mixed tastefully with sharp black and white tailoring.


Os Burgueses

Luis Buchinho used a bold shade of magenta throughout his collection in satin which added shine to the proceedings. Miguel Vieira’s fantastical range of colours threw an unnerving trippy sheen to the show, fleurescent colours in retro styled tailoring screamed of a yacht party on acid. Another designer determined to use as many colours as possible while ensuring that drugs use was insinuated was Vitor. His collection with its rainbow prints adorned with unicorns, cats and bling was accompanied by a catwalk covered in well cut lines of flour – a hint at the designers partying ways perhaps!


Luis Buchinho


Miguel Vieira


Vitor

Say My Name and Ricardo Preto both used a range of bold colours through organic looking prints and blocks of colour added to neutral tones.


Say My Name


Ricardo Preto



Ricardo Dourado used a bold palette of orange, white and black – teamed with the prison style tattoos and a dirty metal track. 
Ricardo Dourado

Cut out details
In previous seasons cut out details have dominated the Spring/Summer trends, sitting on the torso as a cheeky flash of flesh. This season cut out details were mainly seen through the shoulders and upper arms. Slashed shoulders and collars were seen in the urban Adidas collection and similarly in the Polish design brand MMC Studio who used the cut outs in a well tailored collection.



Adidas

Os Burgueses followed suit adding flashes of colour to the cut out areas across the collection in collars as well as sleeves. Vitor also employed the cutout shapes throughout the looks in unusual areas – a heart shape cut out of the chest, lapels cut out of a polo shirt and a heart cut from the back of a hood.


Os Burgueses


Vitor

Gold and yellow
Sunny yellow and gold was used in an array of collection – talking the edge of neons and almost veering into pastel territory as seen in the collection of Dino Alves who used a creamy yellow in packing tape strips across the body.

Dino Alves

Lidija Kolovrat used a PVC in a similar creamy yellow for pieces throughout the collection which contrasted strongly with tones of burnt orange. This PVC yellow was again used for light, tight mini dresses in the MMC Studio collection.

Lidija Kolovrat


MMC Design Studio

The summery burnt orange and yellow was also a favourite with designer Miguel Vieira in a 1970’s twist. Filipe Faisca used a similarly retro theme and employed yellow in full pleated mini dresses and a stunning draped jump suit.

Filipe Faísca


Miguel Vieira

Alexsander Protnic turned the flashes of yellow into a classy gold that dominated the oriental themed collection.

Alexsander Protnic

Jersey and Sport
Many collections in recent seasons at ModaLisboa have strongly shown urban sport style trends. The casual, jersey basic collections becoming more and more intricate and developing into an entirely new trend. Brands that were expected to show a sport luxe collection did not disappoint with great urban styles hitting the catwalk.
Adidas, being a worldwide sport brand of course showed a range of fashionable sport looks and provided an incredible show including a range of Portuguese celebrities and the Misshapes DJ duo.


Adidas Show - The Misshapes


Adidas

White Tent have previously shown a collection made of almost entirely jersey fabrics and with the sport edge that was expected. The sport look this season was more feminine with delicate basics mixed with mens style basketball shorts. An all in one in a striking tone of blue featured a draped cape detail adding to the feminine style while remaining true to the labels popular designs. Say My Name is another label that is known for using urban and sport themes, this season using grey jersey contrasted with bottle green metallics as well as a green geometric print.


White Tent


Say My Name

Ricardo Andrez used a range of materials in his collection including the surprising use of seat belt like clips that fastened shorts to braces. This collection with its relaxed tailoring echoed sport luxe trends and could easily translate to the high street. Some of the t-shirt designs were clearly designed for just this. Vitor, known for his sporty collections mixed a dizzyingly camp range of colours and designs with his usual functional wearable shapes in jersey printed fabrics – the entire collection worn with Adidas trainers.

Ricardo Andrez


Vitor

Leather Look
Leather and leather look fabrics were popular throughout the previous winter collections and have not entirely left the trends all together. Aleksander Protnic used leather/leather look in high collared, kinky dresses.

Aleksander Protnic
Ricardo Dourado used a cracked snake skin leather effect in severe avante garde looking jackets in orange and red.
 Ricardo Dourado


Metallic and shine
Metallic flashes of colour were used throughout the majority of collections. Many using laminated fabrics to create a metallic look such as Dino Alves and MMC Studio while designers such as Say My Name used a full on glittering metallics in the collection. Lidija Kolovrat’s prints were laminated to create a metallic, wet look shine on the jackets and t-shirts.


Dino Alves


MMC Design Studio


SayMyName


Lidijia Kolovrat


Military and Androgynous
Military themes were not as prevalent as last season but three collections in particular managed to mix this theme successfully with the summer season. The first being Os Burgueses who’s use of neon colours meant that the otherwise stifling cuts and shapes were brought shining into Spring Summer. High collars, tight waists and severe tailoring added to this androgynous look - think of an Acid Revolution. Pedro Pedro’s collection used similarly tight tailoring in denim blue before returning to more feminine themes.


Os Burgueses


Pedro Pedro

Ricardo Dourado's collection followed a military theme with utility style vests over flowing cotton, simple garments and hinted at a fashion army.


Ricardo Dourado

Oriental themes
The designer that utilized this trend most effectively was Aleksander Protnic showing high collars and shining gold fabrics that were cinched at the waist by bevelled leather belts and ties. The cut of the garments artfully combined modern fashion themes with oriental costume. This is a trend that seems to be developing throughout Europe.



Retro and Vintage influence
While high street trends are constantly changing, vintage styles seem to be here to stay. Who can help but notice the girl in the 1970’s Lacroix jump suit or the blogger in 6 inch flatforms – a clear 1990’s throw back? Retro influences are harder to execute as they can look like terrible fashion decisions but vintage 1960’s themes were seen throughout collections this season. Miguel Vieira’s striped 1970’s/1970’s style jumpsuits with their cinched waists, vibrant tones and bouffant styled hair dos screamed of vintage glamour. The women’s LA housewife contrasting perfectly with the slick looking men’s tailoring that mixed tones of green, mustard and orange with prints, cropped trousers and divine brogues. The evening wear in gold loosely resembled 1960’s ladieswear with block colours and square shapes.


Miguel Vieira

Cia Maritiama also used these vintage themes to the collections advantage with the range of swimwear. Many of the bikini sets featured long line tops and high waisted briefs as well as fabrics in a crochet style that also sat comfortably with vintage trends. Filipe Faisca collection featured many classic shapes and cuts. With some fabulous oversized sunglasses this collection had an edge of espionage while more glamourous era’s were obvious in elegant jumpsuits and tie cinched waists. Nuno Balthazars use of similar classic cuts and wide legged trousers along with drape jumpsuits emanated similar vintage themes.


Cia Marítima


Filipe Faísca


Nuno Balthazar

Alexandra Moura’s vintage themes seemed to go further back and had a range of cultural influences judging from the head scarves and white make up. The collection featured dropped waists and ruffles across the board, white lace crying out to a long forgotten era of petticoats and bloomers while the blue denim retained modern influences – backpacks full of flowers also hinted at a time forgotten while a backpack attached to a skateboard again was in strong contrast.


Alexandra Moura

Ricardo Preto’s collection was not set in a discernible era and featured a range of classic shapes as well as new, edited cuts and low waists, many pieces mixing a-like skirts with loose, square sleeves.



Ruffles and pleats
Ruffles and pleats were very popular in many collections adding shape and structure – a move from last years trends that were very floaty and ethereal. Alexandra Moura’s strange collection featuring white cotton and denim ruffles floated along the catwalk but was accompanied by a rather screeching tune that didn’t sit well with the entire audience. White sheer lace ruffles ended this collection with a flash of red that contrasted strongly with the basic palette of blue and white. Pedro Pedro also used an across the body ruffle in line of a cape and the use of navy blue gave a similar effect although the ruffles didn’t feature as heavily in this collection.


Alexandra Moura


Pedro Pedro

Cia Maritiama used ruffles across accessories rather than using them heavily in swimwear but one piece did feature tan leather ruffles with metallic fringing across the torso of a swimming costume. White Tent also used a subtler approach to ruffles with draped capes and layers providing a ruffled silhouette.


Cia Maritiama


White Tent

Dino Alves’ take on ruffles and pleats was remininscent of pleated, traditional curtains and produced a thick band of pleated fabric that was draped and provided structure.


Dino Alves

Os Burgueses also used a delitcate draped pleat – coloured, sheer jersey like fabric contrasting with the stark tailoring. Luis Buchinho’s use of pleats was very inventive using strong pleats in satin across the width of skirts creating a jack in the box style effect that bounced with every step the model took. These pleats were also used to create bouncing peplums.


Os Burgueses


Luis Buchinho

Stripes
Last summer florals were all the range, and a few summers before that as well. Finally we seem to have bucked this trend and in its place sat a range of striped garments. Ricardo Preto’s use of chunky black and white stripes elongated the body and looked clinically modern while Filipe Faisca’s multi coloured pinstripes and cinched waists felt like a flash back to yesteryear. The Ricardo Dourado collection mixed scruffy looking burnt orange stripes as well as thick black and white horizontal stripes that were striking and built on a utility theme.



Filipe Faisca

Ricardo Preto

Ricardo Dourado


Welcome to the jungle.
It is tough to create a sweeping comment about trends shown but this year a strong theme was the urban jungle. A range of street wear and urban cool that was mixed excellently with feminine cuts and body shapes, while hinting with prints and accessories at a safari theme. Adidas for example created their luxury street wear and used camo prints – welcome to the jungle! Alexandra Moura’s use of head turbans with the painfully innocent collection also hinted at safari themes while the use of skateboards and the clumpy, trainer like shoes also used the urban themes. Box like tailoring from Dino Alves had some safari themes using tones of sand, blue and white. Ricardo Dourado’s badass collection was the true urban jungle, speaking of guerrillas in the city.


Adidas


Alexandra Moura


Dino Alves

Ricardo Dourado

Favourite Collections
Designers to watch out for...

My favourite collections for the coming season are merely a matter of opinion however I feel that they presented interesting trends and great ideas for Spring Summer. Ricardo Dourado’s collection of aggessive, bold colours, croc skin sleeves and utility/streetwear with its military edge created such a great atmosphere- the music that accompanied the collection was Rammstein (aggressive tech-metal originating in Germany) which is always a great way to get a crowd going. I loved the use of bold colour, the inked necks, velcro vests and rocking croc skin. The used of frayed edges, off white,  flashes of orange and military cool really gave this collection an edge and I think this designer is one to watch.

Ricardo Dourado

Nuno Gama’s Spring Summer collection is always a highly anticipated event for every female and most of the men too. Nuno hires 50 of the hottest bodies in Portugal and parades his swimwear down the catwalk on the Adonis like bodies. Eye-candy is not the word. Aside from the swimwear which was very nice (I honestly don’t remember anything below the waist.) the collection that was shown included a range of sharp tailoring, contrasting monochrome lapels and oversized, western bowties. The more casual wear included sheer polo shirts, branded, tight shorts and vests in the same monochrome. Finally the models were sent down the catwalk ‘en masse’. Wearing either black or white trousers and white t-shirts bearing the sentence : “eu quero e ser feliz” which means “I want to be happy” they also had tape across their mouths with sad faces drawn on. This is quite a dark way to end a show.... and I liked it.






Nuno Gama

Miguel Vieira’s collection was a step back in time, a retro themed acid trip on a billionaires yacht. The classic cuts contrasted perfectly with the waves of fabulous, fluorescent colours. Bouffant styled hair and spangling accessories created stunning opulent looks. The final looks also included a beautiful painted print of exotic birds.






Miguel Vieira

A firm favourite of mine in Lisbon is the collection from Vitor. It helps of course that he has sent me collection teasers throughout the previous 6 months and uses motifs of fantastical unicorns, psychedelic kittens and the cutest use of heart cut outs I have ever seen. Another seemingly drug induced collection the catwalk was laid with huge lines of flour, cut with brooms by the assistants. The models kicked their way through the lines quite happily hinting at the fashion party lifestyle and openly mocking the use of illegal substances.





Vitor

Valentim Quaresmas conceptual art and body jewellery this season created a black warrior like set of armour, the use of thin wire struts was reminiscent of a giant spider. The body was decorated with lines to create a beautiful live robot. Decorated visors were lowered across the face while sharp triangular breast plates protected the chest and shoulders.





Valentim Quaresma

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