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Friday, 19 October 2012

Ricardo Dourado


The Ricardo Dourado show was a surprise winner for me! Opening with a pumping beat and models with painted prison tattoos the collection was aggressive and gorgeous. Orange and black, loose long tunics shirts with reptile skin right arms marched through the venue. The t-shirt dresses and prison style tattoos clearly took influence from the street and the bold colours and utility fabrics highlighted this theme.

Dirty looking prints, bondage style Velcro straps and chunky utilitarian street style dominated this striking collection and comments from media all round were complimentary.

Maintaining a link to current trends the collection used organic style shapes and rounded cocoon like shoulders in oversized jumper dresses, slashed with print appendages.

Striped ponchos screamed of a columbian ghetto while casual, sheer collarless shirts were toughened up by square, androgynous jackets.

Breast plates in the bold orange
The collection brought a fresh air to the week after seeing many designers using incredible commercial themes and prints.

Wednesday, 17 October 2012

MMC Studio


Polish guest designers MMC Studio are an established brand and their catwalk shows clear direction.

Using a mixture of sheer plastic, satin, taffeta and organza the label created organic forms and structure with quilted sections and gathers. Opening with dark tones of black and metallic grey the collection quickly brightened to white and pastel pink.

Cocoon shaped dresses and round shouldered bomber jackets with a trendy plastic sheen sat beside organza skirts, piped slightly to create structure.

A Silver grey metallic jacket featured cut out shoulders accented by chuny exposed zips and shoulder panels bore padded black sections, clearly visible. This harshness was contrasted excellently with sheer, floating trousers and skirts as well as soft, non offensive silhouettes.


A few raw edges were seen on silk a-line skirts which was either a mistake or a statement....

Distressed jeans showed the collections wearability - handy as the label are in the process of opening a showroom!


See the video's from the finales!

YouTube.com/watchjemimadaisy

Nuno Gama

Always a firm favourite with the ladies, the Nuno Gama show did not disappoint. The designer, who incidentally is a total dreamboat, gathers 50 of the hottest men in fashion and parades his collection of tailored menswear and *pant pant* swimwear.

The collection opens with a vest top bearing an anchor- a nod to nautical trends which have developed again this summer. Following this luxurious theme of super yachts we also see deck shorts and funky fringed shoes. A nod to the 70's comes in the form of contrasting, bejewelled cuffs and lapels as well as overly extravagant bow ties.

The range of RTW that Nuno Gama sells in his store fit fluently into the collection in polo shirts, shorts and of course the gorgeous men's shoes.

Black and white contrast was the main feature although colour was introduced with gold, white and duck egg blue.

Oriental themes were hinted at through single knotted toggles that secured the single breasted jackets.

Next up was the swimwear.... Oiled up men with more muscles than a sea food restaurant in tiny, daring briefs in black and white which threatened to fall lower and lower with every step taken (god forbid!).

The finale featured the Numo Boys wearing tape across their mouths with a sad mouth drawn on and t-shirts with the words "Eu quero e ser feliz " which I think means 'And I want to be happy'.

The collection was clean cut and entirely appropriate for the season - the swimwear was what I was most excited about and the Nuno boys didn't disappoint.

Saturday, 13 October 2012

Valentim Quaresma

Valentim quaresma is known for his incredible art-slash-jewellery creations that are almost like an installation in a catwalk show.

This season the body was encase with various copper elements and thin square structures.

Visor like eye masks we're shown and the models had lines painted on their bodies which made for a very robotic image.

As the collection is so wonderfully artistic it is impossible to describe. So you're going to have to wait for the photos!

Luis Buchinho


The Buchinho collection started well- magenta leggings with flashes of neon in pockets and inserts, teamed with tailored jackets was gorgeous. Later in the collection muted prints in a murky brown were added and brought the colour palette down.

Pleats were used through out the collection to create structure in wonderful jack-in-the-box skirts and trousers. The signature Luis Buchinho short shorts were shown and used bias cut, stiff organza to create feminine structure.

Dresses draped beautifully in a mix of pleats and silk satin in navy blue and black.

So many of the pieces were executed perfectly including one of the final jackets, plunging neckline, white, sequinned with a girly peplum.


This was another gorgeous collection from Buchino.

Pedro Pedro


Opening with frayed denim and sleeveless jacket dresses, ruffles played a huge part in this collection adding structure and peplums to to the collections.
A scribble of army print was utilised in layered skirts as well as well as a leafy doodle in green.
A trend that has been emerging is the use of fabric to create a square silhouette without padding the shoulder and being there for versatile and feminine.

The collection used metal eyelets to secure pieces which, combined with the use of ruffled bustles create an almost 18th century silhouette; modernised with the use of low waists and mixing the colours.

Tones of blue, salmon and green laced the collection with white.

Jemima Daisy x

Os Burgueses

Hemlines went sky high at the Os Burgesuses show. Skin tight tailored dresses and large a-line skirts in flashes of neon graced the catwalk. While legs were on full display the necklines remained demure and fully buttoned.
Tailored shirts featured triangles of neon fabric in contrasting tones including a stunning black and lime jacket.
Catching the eye was a jacket wig a plunging deep neck - the exposed zip creating a really organic shape which was continued in the cocoon shaped jackets and sleeves.
Double collars and leather sleeves gave jackets a very classy edge.

The collection was cohesive and totally gorgeous!!

Mia, Pedro, well done! I want one of those shirts!!


Jemima Daisy x

Alexandra Moura


The show opens with striking make up. The models near white paint across the top halves of their head with diamanté jewels arrange in patterns around the face in an alien modern twist on tribal face painting.

White sheer linen and broderie englais seem out of place with the modern make up.
Ruffles in blue and white act as peplums across dropped waist skirts and long line jumpers.

The collection some how seems urban juxtaposing crisp white linen with silver skateboard backpacks. Ruffles and bustles are reminiscent of 18th century womenswear.
Glitter panels are added as well as various shades of blue in checked patterns. Silhouettes are wide and square created by the ruffled fabric that features strongly.

Gold is worked through the collection and tiny appliqué bows of fabric attached for a feminine, fluffy feel.
Urban jungle themes - baggy and utilitarian with sparkling twist.



Janis Dellarte

This presentation only featured 5 outfits so it was brief but interesting - a videophones the show telling of influences from Frida Kahlo, Janice Joplin and Cruella Devil. I personally didn't see the Cruella influence as she is a character after my own heart!
The collection opened with a topless man wearing baggy mixed fabric trousers with a dropped crotch. The outfit was styled with beaded braided hair and strips of fabric. The model was holding a bag of sorts with strange appendages and holes. The pitot clearly reflected some sort of urban jungle wasteland and this could be seen in the venue styling including rusty bikes, oil drums and other scattered objects.
The second outfit was a Siamese jumper connecting two twin, male models. They chunky knit wasn't technically interesting but the fact that it was a Siamese jumper was. Clearly the designer isn't worried about cutting off her demographic.

The Bolivian peasant chic continued with head scarves, mixed fabrics and raw trailing hems. One model was a fairly old lady.... Obviously wanting to incorporate 'real people'.
After the outfits were stood in the space the designer undressed the models and hung the pieces for the presentation.

It was certainly interesting but a bit confusing.

Friday, 12 October 2012

ModaLisboa - Night 1 - Party!

Last night the party was in the Fontana Park hotel. The buffet spread was delish and I went back twice for the gorgeous selection of bruschettas! Being vegetarian this is mostly what I ate as well as mozzarella and more cheesey pastry things. Imma get fat! :) The party was in full swing with drinks flowing and it was amaze-balls to catch up with everyone! Faces of ModaLisboa:

Welcome the new Mr Pink Voyager!! @PinkVoyager. I created this little critter for Jean Luc @systeme_D to make up for totally missing his birthday despite being in Paris. Clearly I can't sew so we are calling this Mark 1 and allowing for improvement....

The absolute vodka girls had a weird array of accessories including these shoes! They were all gorgeous looking and slim too....

Welcome Camilla to the fold! This lovely half Italian, half Korean beauty is as lovely as she looks!


Ines from Beauty and the Best who I visited a lot when I was in Lisbon this summer.


Mikolaj Komar - the creator of K Mag (pretty sure the K stands for Komar... very self indulgent!)



Angela Giltrap - my total career crush. She's Australian and living in NY. She's fricking cool. 


Tiago - Head of international media. He's so much fun but he has to be in work mode


Fiona - my favourite!! :) 


Girlys :)



Apparently I thought it was 'Tongue Out' night last night.



 Well... I had fun!




 Jemima Daisy x

Filipe Faisca



This collection was set to a compilation of James Bond themetunes which had most of the audience toe tapping and humming along.  I was at this point already a little tipsy andyou can tell this from my scrawled notes so my opinions cannot really betrusted here....
The collection opened with a bralet and striped trousers,the model wearing sunglasses and looking very ‘The Spy Who Shagged Me’ whilewhite and turquoise, bias cut satin softened the look.
Berets and bandanas gave an almost military feel to thecollection while elegant pleated numbers looked effortlessly cool and very European.A couple of stunning looks featured half black half white pieces, a slimmingeffect and a little different.
Flared trousers and shades of sand screamed of the swinging60’s – red and black were used heavily for bold effect. The only print used wasa bruised, purple snake skin that featured towards the end of the collection.
The final was a model wearing no top at all, her breastspainted red and wearing a floor sweeping sheer skirt. Kinky!
The finale featured the designer (who carried one of themodels last season!) dancing the full length of the catwalk with all of themodels – this was a little unorthodox but it made for a really fun end to theday. 



Jemima Daisy x




I've created a YouTube channel this week!

If you want to see the very badly filmed video finales of the ModaLisboa shows please go to: YouTube.com/WatchJemimaDaisy


White Tent



White Tent is known for their urban street wear looks and this collection showcased the edge wonderfully. Opening with grey and soft pastel pink models wore low waisted basket ball shorts and very light jersey tops. A mixture of lengths used in the tops made for interesting viewing and my favourite piece was a caped jersey vest – simple but wonderfully made.

Drawstring light anoraks seemed a little out of place in such a warm country but the cocoon shaped coats were a great example of style meeting function. Moving away from the functional, sports wear the end of the collection was a delight.
Lemon yellow dresses with hibiscus like flower images laser cut into the fabric showed femininity and scalloped hems on trousers added to this. Tabard like shirts and dresses with mullet hems finished the collection with a flash of salmon pink.

This was a really enjoyable collection mixing the sport/luxury elements seamlessly. 



Jemima Daisy x


Video:


Ricardo Preto



The Preto collection opened with a Riviera feel. Boating jackets in a safari sand with opulent gold stripes sat primly over tailored trousers. Casual tailoring has been seen to be a huge part of Ricardo Pretos collections in the past and this collection held the same values. Casually low waisted skirts were worn with crisp tailored shirts and daringly short shirt dresses with side slits gave the collection its wearable feel. Shift dresses and shirts had square shoulders that gave the illusion of shoulder pads and created a strong silhouette and led nicely into the ultra high waist bands which still gave the illusion of a low waisted skirt.
Neck scarves and pocketed, utilitarian jackets gave this collection a very androgynous edge, a nod to the fishermans wife trend.


Prints were interesting, bold jewel colours used on white as an almost posterised image of Agate (used to collection pretty stones....). The jewel look that was layered in chiffon really brought the looks into Spring Summer. Flowing chiffons were used in gorgeous cigarette pants that featured scalloped edges and satin buttons. Striking shades of orange and red were the last outfits of the collection, contrasting with the sky blue, taupe and gold that was seen earlier in the collection. The finale outfit was another low slung skirt with a wide waist band but in fiery red and totally see through. So much so that the final thing we saw at the end of this collection was the model’s white panties. Lovely! 


Jemima Daisy x

Video:

Thursday, 4 October 2012

Canon - WORKSTATION - Photography at Pulse

 
Moda Lisboa hosts a rather fabulous selection of photographers that have submitted work in line with the theme of this season which is 'Pulse'.
Looking good!






 
MODALISBOA | LISBOA FASHION WEEK -  PULSE | PHOTOGRAPHERS
ARLINDO CAMACHOBorn on 1982 May 31st, soon discovered his admiration and respect for the photography masters.
Their innovations and intents to create something beautiful and different made him desire to innovate and to create something singular and original.
Through different perspectives, he made his own path, being here today to present is singular Fashion point of view. 
Working as a professional photojournalist, he publishes regularly in many national and international media.
www.facebook.com/arlindo.camacho www.cargocollective.com/arlindocamacho 


PULSE BY ARLINDO CAMACHO

ARTUR CABRAL
Born 1979 in Lisbon, he graduated in Architecture. After 10 years working in many architecture studios, he decided to take a break, and to have more time to “shoot” and to develop his child passion for photography.
Autodidact photographer, divides his work between Travel and Fashion photography, always having as reference the human figure. The face, eyes, expressions, the moments ... 
As a freelancer, he collaborated with organizations like Turismo de Lisboa, Lisbon Elite Model Agency or ModaLisboa | Lisboa Fashion Week. But also with key magazines like GQ Portugal, Magnetica Magazine, Drops, Volta ao Mundo, and others.
In fashion, he photographed some editorials and models composites. In his travels, he has a special addiction to Africa, perhaps because of the Africans natural photogenie and amazing wildlife.
www.arturcabral.com


PULSE BY ARTUR CABRAL

INÊS D’OREY
Born in Porto on 1977, she got her higher degree from the London College of Printing.
In 2007 she was awarded as FNAC New Photography Talent.
Since 1999 her work has been frequently published and exhibited locally and abroad.
She works as a freelance photographer for private clients and public institutions, mainly in the fields of scenic and architectural photography.
She published in 2011 the book "Inner Harbour". Inês is a member of the Dear Sir Agency, and she is represented locally by Presença Gallery.
www.inesdorey.com


PULSE BY INÊS D’OREY

MIGUEL MANSOBorn in Évora in 1978, and maybe from his origins, he soon developed a huge passion for the game of lights vs. shadows. Ever since his first picture in 1988, this was (and is) his obsession and intent. 
At the age of 18 he moved to Lisbon, and quickly trade is degree in Civil Engineering for Photojournalism at CENJOR.
After collaborate with Visão Magazine and Metro Portugal, he started working in the broader newspaper Público, and at the same time he also opened is personal  studio – Xposed, in the Lisbon cultural hub LxFactory.
www.xposed.pt 


PULSE BY MIGUEL MANSO

NIAN CANARD
For Nian Canard, movement, colour and the relation between light and darkness, are her striking features.
Departing from the fusion between nature and urban architecture, passing from portraits, and for fashion photography, she is known for her breath taking  transparencies and overlays unique work.
Working between Lisbon and New York, fashion is her domain and photography is her “playground”.
www.niancanard.com


PULSE BY NIAN CANARD

PAULA  MATOS GIL
Paula Matos Gil was born in Guimarães in 1964, and she always showed a great sensitivity to see the world through the cameras. Travelling around the world, she has been shooting and exhibiting her work in several  countries.
Graduated in Economy she has also a huge passion for Mexico and its culture. 


PULSE BY PAULA MATOS GIL

PEDRO SACADURA
Pedro was born in Lisbon in 1990. He started shooting in 2008, and since that he has been working nonstop between fashion, documentary and photo-reportage.
By the Fine Arts of Lisbon Academy, he has a degree in Multimedia Art - Photography Strand.
www.behance.net/pedrosacadura
http://olhares.sapo.pt/pedrosacadura


PULSE BY PEDRO SACADURA

TERESA QUEIRÓS
 
Teresa Queirós was born in Aveiro in 1987. With a degree in Acting & Theatre, she always had a general passion for Art. Photography was a passion that was growing slowly, but suddenly became the main one. Shooting in analogue machines, as photographer, her portfolio is based on emotive portraits, on which we may denote a strong preference for female models and female environments.
Struggling to make the difference in this area, she aims to be able to fuse photography with her other two main passions: music and acting.www.cargocollective.com/teresaq



PULSE BY Teresa Queirós
 

 I am so fricking excited for Lisbon


Jemima Daisy x

Wednesday, 3 October 2012

Jade and her Magicopolis


Jade and her Magicopolis by Hermione de Paula
This collection popped into my inbox today.
 
 
 
 
I thought the colours were cute, I love the sheer applique flowers, the weird looking model, urban oriental influences that juxtapose the rock'n'roll with dainty girly florals.
 

The collection exists as a dreamlike state of memories, colours and surreal episodes that make up a magical journey. - Apparently.
 
 

Monday, 1 October 2012

Hexa by Kuho

Set in a long Dark room lined with book cases a teas release tells us that the collection is based around the film of Jane Eyre - based of course, on the book by Charlotte Bronte. One of my favourites!

As the collection opens with a coral tailored jacket it is hard to see the 19th century influence but as the pieces continue it is clear. Rouched bustled and unexpected volume grace jackets and dresses which utilise a-line and empire line full skirts to emphasise the yester-year influences.

Rouched draped fabric almost forming pleats across the bust, arms and torso lead to smocked pants that feature similar features and balloon around the thigh like Tudor pantaloons.

The structured additions to the pieces often sit like peplums but the added panels widen the silhouette creating a more dynamic shape viewed from all angles.

Sheer inserts are a nod to modern trends including a peter pan collared dress that looks completely up to date in a stoney grey.

Bright flashes of colour in the midst of the opening section provide relief and we see turquoise, mint green, eggy yellow and bold red.

Jackets and frock coats bear double breasted rows of round, braided buttons that show a near military theme.

From the delicate stone tones of the opening pieces a new section of stormy purple-grey is shown. Smocking is seen again through the bust in near sheer mesh. Laser cut damask florals are lain across the paler grey creating an incredible look, trailing cut edges and layered bustles adding more and more shape.

The opulent rouching and smock details in this collection show clearly the themes, the use of muted tones in line with the meek, plain heroine of the inspirational story.

High waists and tight, strict garments also retain the 18/19th century ideals of women's dress although the cliche of sweeping floor length gowns is well avoided as skirts sit on or above the knee.

Hair and make up is soft and plain, the long, straight hair worn in a low ponytail with a layer of straight hair on top to add a hint of femininity.
















I really loved this collection!!


Jemima Daisy x