Tuesday, 28 February 2012

Paris Fashion Week - Anthony Vaccarello & Aganovich

Anthony Vaccarello
Anthony Vacarello’s collection started with a basic palette of navy blue with sport luxe, drawstring hooded jackets and military style details. The press release foretold of 50’s style glamour and fine lingerie as influences.
Utilitarian details such as drawstrings, eyelets and exposed zips gave the beginning of the collection an edge while the quality of the shining fabric added luxury and developed through pockets and structure into military style dresses and jackets. Dresses featured one harsh, structured shoulder and one exposed side with underwear details covering modesty as well as bondage style braces and elasticated straps. Dresses featured panelled bustiers with military details as did highwaisted trousers with detailed waist panels.
The evening wear dresses mixed sport luxe with elegant party wear and military finishes. Colour worked into the collection in an opalescent sparkling green as well as brassy gold which made up split side maxi skirts which seem very popular this season.
The collection was consistent and featured many interesting aspects and trends but the finale was spoiled by a model collapsing on the runway with shoe problems... or too starved to walk.

Images by Fashionising

Based on the palette of black, white and blue this collection featured clean, perfectly cut lines, waves of stiff fabrics on double breasted jackets and heavy knitwear with dropped arm holes. The silhouette was soft yet often punctuated by spikes of clinical fabrics. Adding interest to the basic palette was occasional use of embossed brocade fabrics. Sleeves were split and satin featured along side heavier wools and outerwear. Hoods were styled into the collection as wooly balaclavas and zipped skin tight caps. From the casual wear that was inspired by the arctic came metallic blacks and velvet as well as smarter shirts piped with a delicate blue. The collection was inspired by the arctic but it was hard to see the influences through the colour scheme however there were some very interesting pieces.

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