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Wednesday, 29 February 2012

Paris Fashion Week - Luis Buchinho


The collection took the audience through the streets of Portugal with a sophisticated, patriotic muse. The mosaic prints teamed with geometric panels flattered and added shape, often though we saw soft shift dresses hanging loosely as well as t-shirt maxis, pleated and billowing at the back. Outfits featured peplum like rectangular panels hanging away from the body and creating structure, complimenting the mosiaic print and patchwork panels. Colour blocking was featured widely throughout jumpsuits and dresses and some were split almost jester like. Outwear also featured the flap panels and jacket lapels tapered into a V shape as did the waist band of shorts adding a feaminine sexy touch. Textures were varied from satin to nylon, chunky knit, textured wool coats and shaggy sheep skin. Staying within the signature Luis Buchinho style this collection featured the favoured nautical colours of white, gray, blue and black. Another gorgeous collection from Luis Buchinho. Can’t wait to see some more in Portugal!!

Jemima Daisy





Paris Fashion Week - Cocktails Make Us Smile








The beautiful aftermath...

Paris Fashion Week - Limi Feu


Limi Feu
The collection began artfully with a Parisian feel, monochrome separates, shift dresses and cute, chic collars on black tea dresses rolled down the catwalk accessorised with berets and velvet turbanettes. Waists were bunched and elasticated and this continued through the show in oversized gathered pockets and legs on baggy, low crotched trousers. Mixing femininity with androgyny models worn highwaisted feminine pencil skirts and pussy bow blouses with severe braces as well as low waisted tapered trousers. Neck lines varied from high structured turtle necks to lower V necks. A favourite piece was a satin jumpsuit with pearl chains hanging from around the neck and waist. There were many outstanding pieces in this collection but the theme seemed to get lost part way through – the feminine chic transformed into trench coats and baggy oversized jackets in the style of trousers with pockets halfway up the back and belt hoops on the shoulder. Underwear worked into the collection with bustiers, lace up skirts and jackets and corsets were worn over bunchy white fabric. Outerwear was varied but gorgeous - with large buttons, interesting structure and subtle texture. Cocoon and bubble coats as well as cape shapes were a favourite!
There were many beautiful and stylish pieces in this collection but it was a little inconsistent.











Images from Fashionising.com

Paris Fashion Week - Nicolas Andreas Taralis


Opening with a floor sweeping black coat over a near sheer skirt the show got off to a good start, continuing the military-cum-utility style jackets. Tuxedo style jackets were worn over sheer soft knit that had trailing hems, subtle dip dye and sat well under across the body straps and asymmetric jackets. Oriental themes were worked through the show with kimono style sleeves and structured necks made of quilted strips of fabric. The ulitiy themes were obvious with waxed fabrics making up layered capes and flashes of painted metal poppers. Within the collection were androgynous elements including the severe hair styles and drop crotch trousers. Menswear was shown and men wore trench coats, dropped and twisted crotch trousers, buckled at the side and draped artfully. Silver grey appeared in unhemmed light dresses. Scraggly hems were favoured with cotton dripping from sleeve seams and the bottom of dresses finding themselves dirtied on the dusty floor.
The collection mixed the three themes effectively and the collection was consistent and wearable. 

Jemima Daisy









Pics from Fashionising.com


Paris Fashion Week - Guy Laroche


The show opens with laminated burgundy PVC with black. Roll neck jumpers with structured arms are contrasted with the stiff fabric of the PVC in jackets and skirts. Black continues in the collection with textured wool dresses, shaggy sheep skin, sheer ruffled blouses and low waisted belted midi skirts. Following the high-shine textures we saw black leather lamp shade skirts with turtle neck jumpers and worn with elbow high black leather gloves – matching the curved heel, knee high boots. Cream and white filters in with near sheer tight turtle necks with off white satin cigarette pants, gathered delicately at the waist and mixing luxurious fabrics with Parisian chic and casual wear. Adding a twist to this collection was the layering of skirts under tunics and other skirts – peeping through side splits and a trend we have seen quite a lot this season already. Silvery gunmetal hits the catwalk with satin and chiffon light dressres with long sleeves, low hems and modest necklines – the collection remained classy contrasting with the amost kinky boots, gloves and textured leather. Red and gold feature textured metallic fabrics looking shabbily chic and deconstructed as the show closes. Final outfits featured metallic gold foil prints on black in an almost Aztec shapes. The collection was shorter than expected but developed nicely and was edited well – aimed at a market of smart, sophisticated women the collection hit trends yet was incredibly commercial and wearable. 

Jemima Daisy










Images by Fashionising.com


Paris Fashion Week - Devastee

Devastee


The Devastee collection usually follows the same formula – creepy basic images such as crosses and smiley faces in black and white on wearable separates. This collection was the same with black and white, x-ray fruit prints starting the collection on soft shift dresses with ruffled full necks mix and matched with monster knits, scissor print casual tailoring and finished with black smiles painted on the faces of models. The brand focuses on mainly very wearable outfits such as tea dresses with printed leggings, knitted jumper dresses, oversized shirts and printed blazers as well as often showing a few pieces that are a little avant garde. Bunched, satin dresses created structure in an otherwise soft show as well as light tea dresses worn underneath translucent, structured tulle. Texture was created through laser cut-outs flapping lightly next to the skin hanging from the space it was cut from and subtle hints of brocade were seen in separates. The entire collection was incredibly wearable (bar a few dresses at the end) and Devastee are connoisseurs when it comes to commercial, cool prints.

 
 
Jemima Daisy








Images by Fashionising.com



Tuesday, 28 February 2012

Paris Fashion Week - Anthony Vaccarello & Aganovich

Anthony Vaccarello
Anthony Vacarello’s collection started with a basic palette of navy blue with sport luxe, drawstring hooded jackets and military style details. The press release foretold of 50’s style glamour and fine lingerie as influences.
Utilitarian details such as drawstrings, eyelets and exposed zips gave the beginning of the collection an edge while the quality of the shining fabric added luxury and developed through pockets and structure into military style dresses and jackets. Dresses featured one harsh, structured shoulder and one exposed side with underwear details covering modesty as well as bondage style braces and elasticated straps. Dresses featured panelled bustiers with military details as did highwaisted trousers with detailed waist panels.
The evening wear dresses mixed sport luxe with elegant party wear and military finishes. Colour worked into the collection in an opalescent sparkling green as well as brassy gold which made up split side maxi skirts which seem very popular this season.
The collection was consistent and featured many interesting aspects and trends but the finale was spoiled by a model collapsing on the runway with shoe problems... or too starved to walk.







Images by Fashionising


Aganovich
Based on the palette of black, white and blue this collection featured clean, perfectly cut lines, waves of stiff fabrics on double breasted jackets and heavy knitwear with dropped arm holes. The silhouette was soft yet often punctuated by spikes of clinical fabrics. Adding interest to the basic palette was occasional use of embossed brocade fabrics. Sleeves were split and satin featured along side heavier wools and outerwear. Hoods were styled into the collection as wooly balaclavas and zipped skin tight caps. From the casual wear that was inspired by the arctic came metallic blacks and velvet as well as smarter shirts piped with a delicate blue. The collection was inspired by the arctic but it was hard to see the influences through the colour scheme however there were some very interesting pieces.






Images by Fashionising.com