Friday, 28 October 2011

27th October 2011 – Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland - Teresa Copilas

 This show began with men being dressed as statues, standing on tall boxes with black skirts, topless and looking very godly, certainly has been done this season in Paris by Victor and Rolf and I'm pretty sure I saw something similar in London 2 seasons ago as well, but it was a nice idea and in the cold windy weather a tanned six pack is a nice view!
The collection was set to some very 90’s music, I’m not talking about the classics either, behind the naked men was a looping film flying over the desert and the music began to sound very regal.   The designer is famous for her evening-wear and the show began with standard shapes and LBD’s as well as a few coloured pieces. 

The shorter dresses featured rouching and folding as well as many asymmetric elements and big feature bows. Some of the collection had a light feel with satin, feminine dresses with low backs and wide, knee length skirts and we even saw some puff sleeves!

A favourite outfit early on was a shorter red, pussy bow, patterned silk dress that looked almost vintage but very classy. Before featuring any prints the collection went through ‘Diors New Look’ with classic black and white two in one dresses with wide skirts and cinched waists. The prints began rather randomly with a tiny polka dot maxi and then moved through florals in bright greens, muted bronze and blue. The second half of the show was mainly chiffon maxi dresses with huge billowing skirts, rouched bodices in a variety of pop colours and a few varied necklines, some featuring off the shoulder details.

For me this collection was very samey and I never want to see another floaty maxi again but the pieces individually were stunning and very well made.

Jemima Daisy

27th October 2011 – Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland - Custo Barcelona

The Custo show began with muted tones and his and hers outfits, with two models hitting the catwalk at once in their matching outfits. Women wore tight city shorts and low, loose scoop neck vests under loose sleeveless boyfriend blazers – finally we are seeing some real summer collections! The men wore trousers cropped just at the ankle with turn ups and gently tailored jackets over vests and t-shirts.  The first prints to appear were a digital pixelated print in green.  These muted tones quickly moved into some gorgeous candy colours with greens, salmon, nude and lots of high shine and glitter. A wonderful element was the holographic dress that shimmered down the runway in beige, bringing something new to such a popular summer colour. To add to the metallic sparkles zips were a strong feature, some being exposed and functional but most there to look good.
The menswear was similar in colour and theme to the womenswear keeping the bright colours, exciting prints and some very very tight shorts!
Dresses for the women were short and tight, showing off the female form and elements of structure created with symmetrically. One of the divine prints that carried through the show looked like a messy princess’s bedroom with pearls, pink and sparkles.  Separates were beautifully styled and executed6 and the tiny disco shorts that zipped down the side grew into full sparkling, scallop edged culottes. Oriental influences crept into this collection through the prints and high shine element.
The whole collection was lovely with wonderful prints, no two pieces the same and great development through from ready to wear to high end exciting evening wear as well as some swimwear pieces.

27th October 2011 – Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland - Paradecka

The Paradecka show mixed a variety of prints and like its title ‘Hand Re-Made’ suggested all of the fabrics seemed to be second hand, ranging from childrens duvet covers, thicker curtain like fabric and bags from sofa covers. The collection showed a few lovely pieces in the current mustard staple and delicate prints but was a little inconsistent due to the mixed fabrics and colours. Siloheutes were feminine and light, mainly sitting tight on the waist and following classic 40’s and 50’s shapes.

Jemima Daisy

Thursday, 27 October 2011

27th October 2011 – Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland - Paulina Poloz

This collection was also a mix of men and womenswear featuring basics with a twist. Nude leggings featured knee pads and PVC jackets featured two sets of sleeves. Menswear also featured the padded knees, elbows and even a six pack style padded shirt. The padding turned to studded knees on black dropped crotch trousers and this became cut out knees. The muted tones and white turned to black and then acid wash turquoise denim also featuring  studded shoulders and padding – these jackets I loved! Strangely some of the outfits were sent out on the runway twice... This was quite an androgynous collection with effective use of layers and styling and could be sold and worn easily. However the ridiculous smoke machine use left me sneezing for the next 15 minutes...

Jemima Daisy

27th October 2011 – Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland - Al

This collection featured black and grey jersey basics with flashes of neon colour and strange elements like full hoods, covering the face with bulbous padded eyeholes looking like something from Guantanamo bay. One outfit featured a plastic flamingo maxi skirt which looked a little like a shower curtain. A few of the male models came out on BMX bikes and a skateboard in cycling shorts in neons under black jersey miniskirts. Women wore elasticised waists and t-shirts with black bra cups. Certainly an interesting collection of basic shapes with interesting colours and additions.

Jemima Daisy

27th October 2011 – Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland - Annalisa Bieniek

With a colour palette of violets and mauve this collection was mysterious and light, with floating sheer draping, highwaisted pencil skirts and multi length hems. I loved how lady like this collection was in the mauve that can be so dull yet the interesting mixed lengths and layering saved this.
A few pieces in burgundy featured and my favourite accessory was a white fox veil that fell half way down the back – at least I’m not the only one in fur today!

Jemima Daisy

FashionPhilosophy Fashion Week Poland October 2011 – Arriving in Lodz

Boarding my plane from heathrow at 6:30am after leaving my house at 4 I had a huge panic attack when my guide Magda text me to tell me a driver was picking me up from Lodz airport, mainly because I was on board a service to Warsaw! Touching down in Warsaw and turning my phone back on my fears disappeared: There is a car waiting for you. The car of course was a shiny new BMW – who would expect less?! Got to love fashion week!

The trip to Lodz took even longer than the flight as new roads are being built for the EuroCup football being hosted in Warsaw next year, a highway is being built to make the stadium more accessible. Apparently the Polish football team usually manage 3 games before dropping out of the competition but there are high hopes for this coming event...

I arrived at hotel Andels, the building is a beautiful old factory, totally renovated except for a few ‘feature’ walls and the old style high ceilings and windows. The details in the room are gorgeous, the head boards all mixed textiles and individual with matching cushions, under floor heating in the bathroom, a walk in shower... a walk in toilet (the glass walls make you feel like a museum exhibition... very strange), a bath, window seats, up lights, down lights, lamps, air conditioning. Its a beautiful place to stay. 

Gorgeous room!

Back lit facial tissues? How cute?!

Casual bathroom pose...

The confessional chair in my wardrobe.

Gorgeous unique headboards.

Upon arriving in my room I find that I have another marvellous Fashion Philospophy Goodie bag. Inside is a huge tin of biscuits, magazines (in Polish...) Maybelline make-up and a gorgeous hard back notebook, a Fashion Week Poland diary for 2012, a phone holster by Bogie, six hideously sweet Blow energy drinks and a guide to the week. This s always a good start!

Goodie baaag!

Myself and my guide have a wander round the attached Manafactura shopping centre, stuffed full of reasonably priced clothes, shoes and costmetics; my guide knows the best places so I don’t need to search through crappy stores to get to the good ones!

After settling in comes the welcome dinner in the Royal Pallazzio where the gorgeous room is half full with fine food and important government bods, who i avoid talking to in fear of offending someone with my English-ness.

Standard Lazy Plane wear. Love my Woolenstocks!

Face in hole at the Palace museum!

So I brought 6 pairs of shoes, no hair brush, no toothpaste, no hair grips,  no hairspray. Nothing useful really... !

Next is the Re Act fashion show... The show is all about recycling and features two guest designers and 20 student, 3 piece collections. Re Act is all about recycling, reusing and making the fashion industry more ecologically friendly. So, hemp and paper mache was the course of the day. 

Sunday, 23 October 2011

Danish Wakeel’s - DEATH BEING EROTICIZED – Fashion Show and short film premiere

On Friday 21st October I was asked to choreograph the fashion show for Danish Wakeel’s fashion collection – this included selecting a sound track which meant I could indulge my inner-goth.

Arriving harassed and late I was met with a wall of gorgeous models and my first move was to warn all involved of my way of working. Listen to what I say, do what I say or I will turn into an absolute bitch. 

After this uplifting pep-talk I began to get the show ready, creating collection order and having a look through the collection. Based around love and lust vs. death the collection featured glamorous, sparkling gold mixed with dark undertones of feathers and black – looking like a wonderful mixture of Soho drag and road kill.  Structuring was innovative and bold with sleeves being attached to hoods of corseted jackets giving the collection a bondage edge with these torturous outfits – the models wearing such outfits were so good!
 They kept quiet and barely complained about their weirdly held body shapes (I would have moaned endlessly)!

The collection was started with a short film premiere of the new collection, filmed in a castle and featuring a femme fatale luring men to her lair and then killing and torturing them – a standard weekend in the country then!!
The females were wearing draped dresses featuring cut-outs and sexy plunging backs and flowing maxi skirts and juxtaposed the innovative, structured menswear. T-shirts featured images of the designer, Danish Wakeel, wearing the collection. Make up was deep blues and golds with eyes painted onto the face (I have a feeling this was on my suggestion!) as well as body art by Tamara Gitter.

Feathers, glitter and lace trims were scattered throughout the collection that was overall incredibly well received and quite hypnotic to watch. To match the subversive, evil undertones of the collection I featured heavier music than I would ever usually use in a fashion show starting with Muse – Showbiz. Slowing down the standard catwalk and adding some strange body movements to show inner anguish with the men and the aloofness of the women the collection started out well. The next song featured was Rammsteins Engel accenting the male/female contrast through the classical vocals. Speeding up proceedings and adding an even darker side was Silent Descent’s as yet unreleased new single Psychotic Euphoric (Thanks for letting me use this guys!!). Considering this is a trance metal track, played in a Mayfair hotspot it went down incredibly well and heads were bouncing around the club, this faded into Pendulum’s Island part II track that is a fast paced drum and bass beauty and the body crippling bass lines added so much depth to the show.
The shows finale was walked to the legendary tones of AC/DC Black in Black.
What a great show! Congrats Danish!

Lovely Ladies and gents inc. my wonderful assistant Jennie Thompson and Michaela Harewood

Working with one of the models

Showing off my Catwalk Skillz in rehearsal with designer Danish Wakeel


Glitter, feathers and body art!

Feather, sparkles and lace trim

Sexy draping and goddess women

Torture structure and corsetting

Custom t-shirts

Golden suit!

Much Love
Jemima Daisy

For anyone who heard my attempt at mastering electric DJ decks you would have probably noticed that I’m not and will never be a professional DJ – too many buttons!!