Friday, 30 September 2011

Paris Fashion Week SS12 - Amaya Arzuaga

The show venue was ‘Cite de la mode et du Design’ – a gorgeous metal and glass structure sitting on the river bank – the reception to the show was a few glasses of horrible, but doubtless expensive red wine which was the ‘goodie’ for seated tickets. Last season’s show was packed out in comparison and we were asked to move forward to front row.
About to get upgraded....

The show began with sheer metallic blouse with a plunging neckline and concentric pleats, paired with a skirt made of angled strands metallic raffia. The plunging necklines continued, adding backless pieces and using an array of sheer, metallic pastels of the palest shades. The pale pastels were offset with contrasting black panelling and trim.

There were two main silhouettes on the run way – the first a tight skirted mini with structured pleats adding interest and the second was a gorgeous bucket shaped, tubular mini that hung away from the body, the models tucking their arms behind the wide silhouette. 
The sheer bucket dresses barely disguises tight swimwear, bodysuits mini jumpsuits also toting the concentric pleat. The swimwear/bodysuits were in white metallic jersey as well as one pastel pink sheer knitted suit.

Pleats began to accentuate the form with deep plunging neck lines featuring structured pleated busts – shunning the current lowering hemlines this collections microminis were a breath of fresh air while retaining the sheer trends and the metallic silks.

The collection was incredibly consistent in its use of fabrics and style and the pleating, structuring and draping was beautifully executed.

Jemima Daisy x
Images by Sannita Hancock

Paris Fashion Week SS12 - Charlie Le Mindu

Last season Charlie Le Mindu shocked London with a naked blood splattered model wearing just a hat and although it gained a huge amount of press the rest of the collection paled in comparison to this statement.

Now however, Charlie has created a dynamic collection of evening wear pieces and was showing in Paris today, front row waiting to be wowed was Pam Hogg and Diane Pernet as well as various other fashion faces.

The collection was a mixture of sheer fabrics, fetishwear, hair extensions as garments and a prominent egyption theme, with men wearing low slung maxi skirts and sporting eyeliner.

Fish tail dresses with sweeping trains left us in no doubt that this collection was to die for while the flashes of skin, structuring and gravity defying bejewelled head dresses reminded us that we were indeed watching an avante gard show by Charlie Le Mindu.

The Finale outfit was worn by Rossy de Palmer, who has previously been named muse by the likes of Jean Paul Gaultier and Thierry Muggler. The kneed length cocktail dress featured an on trend mixed length hem, spangled, embellished cups, leading to an embellished choker and topped with a huge sparkling snake, huge amounts of black hair sprouting from the head and looking every inch the modern princess!
Similar to the collection shown by Giles this season in London mixing glamour with oversized head dresses and princess like evening wear.

Jemima Daisy x

Paris Fashion Week Day 1

I am back in the wonderful city of Paris! Again accompanied by the one and only Sannita Hancock.

I would like to mention the weather. It is summer here and I am sweating monstrously. Love it!

Being stingy and freelance meant that we travelled to Paris by coach, leaving at 10:30pm we arrived in Paris at 5am after a coach trip from hell...
A woman, fat, possibly pregnant, chain smoking and obviously drunk with an Essex accent, witchy piecing cackle and with severe attention deficit disorder... as in she needs all the attention, all of the time was sat/sprawled 10 rows back and was obnoxious the entire trip. Eventually managing fitful sleep and praying that my Aquascutum coat didn’t get vomit or wee on as I slept.

Anyway... we are in Paris. We are checked in to a rather grotty yet functional hotel near Porte D’Orleans. It aint classy.
Today after late check in (we got there 2 hours before the room was ready!) and going to collect a wodge of tickets we headed to Rue De Pompe where I had heard of a charming little store ‘Reciproque’.  If you have enough money to splurge but not enough to shop Champs D'Elysees you have to go here. The ground floor is full of rails; the shop looks like it’s a grotty second hand store. Everything is designer. We found Dior, La Croix, Versace, Chanel... the list goes on. The sizes are generally tiny so although I fell in love with a huge, billowing, vintage, 50’s couture skirt... I was unable to purchase it. NOTHING to do with the 300€ price tag.  
Also found a ridiculously oversized Balenciaga handbag in their accessories section which nearly had me weeping and wondering how long I would have to save for... (Forever!)
Sannita was ensconced with a stunning royal blue, silk Versace number with beautiful draped sleeves and divine cut outs... as well as Chanel courts.

The down side to this Aladdin’s Cave is the staff and the basement.
Fair enough you’re stocking expensive stuff... but really.... following us round like hawks?! We obviously are here to admire, are doing so respectfully and would like you to piss off snooty lady!
The basement houses ‘lower labels’, shoes and fur. The fur was incredible, for a vegetarian that’s saying a lot – all sorts of designers in an array of gorgeous colours and styles... beautiful. The shoes were pretty average – apart from some studded Mui Mui wedges there was nothing attractive to fit my big feet! We also found a pair of New Look shoes on the shelf – selling for 69€... Are you shitting me?!

In the large basement room the layout is a nightmare. Apart from a mental rubix cube Lacoste jumper dress that would never fit over my hips it was impossible to find anything. Shame as there were certainly hidden gems.... somewhere.

Next was a wander through the surrounding streets full of posh cars, immaculately dressed families and obvious affluence. No one selling Eiffel Tower key rings here!

Anyway.... shows coming soon!

Au Revoir!

Stylish Sannita

Not all that stylish but Loving my HelloKitty Vans!

Sunny Paris Street

Jemima Daisy

Tuesday, 20 September 2011

Danielle Scutt - LFW - Tuesday 20th September 2011

Danielle Scutt’s collection had a definite punk edge with teddy boy style high collared shirts, flashes of tartan, braces and styled draped bows in gold. 

Acid washed denim was paired with white and red tartan and the collection turned from boyish punk to all out rebel. Disco ball sparkling maxi skirts gave way to ‘hemp leaf’ printed t-shirts, body con, yellow polka maxi dresses, dungarees and string vests. The show was an attack on the senses swinging between punk and rebellion. The collection was very ready to wear and on trend with the silhouettes and themes. This collection would not be out of place in any mainstream highstreet fashion store.

Jemima Daisy
Photography by Luke Charles

Kinder Auggugini - LFW - Tuesday 20th September 2011

Kinder Auggugini’s collection is always one to watch and this year was no different, reigning whacky ideas into a consistent ready to wear collection with big ideas.

Another collection featuring the strong bright reds and pinks that are trending for the coming summer along with beautiful mismatched prints, below the knee hemlines, dropped waists and saucy flashes of flesh and neons.
Strong shapes were shown through lapels and collars trimmed with bright colours, sheer fabrics were peeping out from underneath jackets and an array of matte and glossy metallic fabrics were featured. 
Following no trend in particular this collection managed to hit the nail on the head swinging between all the emerging trends!
Jemima Daisy
Photography by Luke Charles

Aminaka Wilmont - LFW - Tuesday 20th September 2011

Considering this was the last on schedule show of the season the turn out wasn’t great and a few back rows were asked to move forward.

The show opened with photographic floral prints in grey/blue with a few splashes of colour made with silk jersey and sporting almond cut outs. Following current fabric trends there were many sheer fabrics layered over bodies and flashing nipples here and there with neckline sparkling embellishments.

Another common feature was asymmetric cuts with side split maxis and one legged jump suits as well as asymmetric cut out tops. The grey rose floral print continued through the whole collection keeping it consistent, ready to wear and on a theme. The colours varied little from grey except for a few pastels and were not a convincing summer palette although this was a gentle relief from the pop colours that we have seen so much of.


The last few outfits featured warrior like breastplates and arms wrapped in splash print fabric, hinting at a safari edge while the miniskirts and shift dresses were reminiscent of the 60’s.

Jemima Daisy
Photography by Luke Charles

Mark Fast - LFW - Monday 19th September 2011

The Mark Fast collection was made up of 5 basic colours.

Starting with nude, to yellow, morphing into orange, becoming an intense red then darkening to black. It was slow, obvious progression that looked really effective.
Garments were sheer and had the look of deconstructed, glamourous string vests with flowing trims and varied length skirts. This crocheted look continued with ruffled girly dresses and layering before turning to more angular yellow garments with coral ruffled trims.
Mark fast carried this crochet look through the entire collection with variations on the crocheted theme until the evening wear became fiery, structured and printed. The final garment was a black maxi dress with a huge appliqué ruffled skirt with flashes of yellow and orange running through the hem.
Jemima Daisy
Photography Luke Charles

Fashion Shenzhen - LFW - Monday 19th September 2011

The collection began with a selection of bright burnt oranges, knitted florals and darker jewel greens which seemed out of place in a SS collection.

There was alot of detailed embellishment and the collection colour brightened halfway through and became full of reds, blues and yellow for a more tropical twist.
A collection that developed well, featured some gorgeous skilled embellishment, bold structuring and accentuated the female form.
Jemima Daisy
Photography By Luke Charles

Monday, 19 September 2011

Jacob Kimmie - LFW - Saturday 17th September 2011

The theme of this collection appeared to be based around ‘convent chic’ with saucy cut outs, long feminine maxi dresses and skirts as well as high necks and accessorised with crucifixes.

Sheer shirts, capes and skirts revealed cheeky flashes of thigh and nipple and this gave way to flirty ruffles, delicate prints of flying doves and layered midi skirts, nipped in at the waist.  The feminine silhouettes, gentle prints, styling and cut outs were absolutely stunning that this was a well formed, consistent collection.
Jemima Daisy
Photography by Natalie Bennett

Matthew Williamson - LFW - Sunday 18th September 2011

Another heaving show full of fashionistas and celebs desperate to see the collection.

The catwalk was black and the bold, vibrant colours of the collection were really bold on the runway.
The collection began with bright orange print, colour blocking and casual tailoring before the prints became a little retro and the collection took a turn towards gorgeous evening wear.
The colours began to change through green, mustards and then to blue with swirling, neon embellishment, fluffy trimmings and delicate flow prints. One maxi dress is split to the thigh with a utility style tailored top and is gorgeous.
The eveningwear featured incredibly detailed fringing and embellishment in block colours, adding a warrior like breast plate to the garments – a perfect end to a stunning show.
Jemima Daisy
Photography by Luke Charles

Marios Schwab - LFW - Sunday 18th September 2011

The Marios Schwab collection opened with a sport luxe theme with laser cut fabric and clinical, neat lines that were feminine through the soft pastel colours and the cut out sections accentuating the body. The fabrics were cleverly chosen with high shine, stiff coated fabrics emphasizing the sport trend.


The eveningwear became increasingly feminine with nipped in waists and hourglass silhouettes. Mesh overlays darkened the pastel colours and intensifying the collection, the seams viewable through the mesh were well placed to flatter the body and create interesting shapes.

The finale was a blue glittering body worn beneath a sheer, mesh maxi dress – a beautiful final outfit.
Jemima Daisy
Photography by Luke Charles

Daks- LFW - Saturday 17th September 2011

Daks’ collection featured a chic sophisticated colour palette starting with monochrome and moving to navy and nude.
This grown up palette was modernised with mixed length outfits, tiny hot pants with midi overskirts, open at the front almost like medieval bustle skirts. The silhouettes were stream lined and feminine, accentuating waists and the jackets toting sharp shoulders.
A bathing/playsuit hit the run way and added a hint of Riviera vintage that we have seen so much of this season. Playing ode to the 70’s run way trends trousers were wide legged and high waisted tucked over halter necks and relaxed tailored shirts.

The collection was consistent, classy and gorgeous, hitting all the trends with style.

Jemima Daisy
Photography by Luke Charles

Jasper Conran - LFW - Saturday 17th September 2011

The Jasper Conran collection featured block colours en masse, starting with all grey garments with slight colour variation.

The silhouettes were loose and straight, hanging away from the bodies and reaching below the knee with a few full maxi garments.
Steering away from the OTT prints and feminine lines this collection was a breath of fresh air.  Straight lines, side splits and monotone colour were the main trends in this collection – certainly one to watch for next summer.
Jemima Daisy
Photography by Luke Charles

Jaeger London - LFW - Saturday 17th September 2011

Jaeger featured pastel colours in the trademark sophisticated casual tailoring with gorgeous cropped jackets, a line skirts and cute girly pleated dresses.

The colours were reminiscent of the 1970’s as so many collections have been with pastel turquoise, burnt orange and mustard. Adding a summer edge shorts and tops featured a bright colour pop striped print.
Wide soft lapels brought the torso silhouette out wider rather than power padded shoulders and the wide legged culottes hinted at the 70’s. 
Evening wear became slightly darker with lace sleeveless blouses, flowing midi skirts and alluring black sheer midi dresses.
Jaeger is known for its mature, ready to wear collections and this reaffirmed Jaegers place on the fashion map.
Jemima Daisy
Photography by Luke Charles

John Rocha - LFW - Saturday 17th September 2011

John Rocha’s collection was spectacular, with a basic monochrome colour palette.

The simple colours made the collection all the more interesting with wide feathered, structured skirts, saucy black lace, and frayed black plastic.

The deconstructed garments looked perfect and finessed rather than messy and uncouth as some collections can be. Veering towards romance over the bright summer trends dresses were featured in gold and cream with sheer panels revealing nipples, wide netted skirts and shimmering, scrunched ruffles.
Keeping in line with the midi trend skirts were below the knee with a few layered, side split maxis.The styling was gorgeous with horn like head dresses rocking horse sandals (impossibly hard to walk in!) and ribbons of fabric dripping from the models pig tails.
Heading back a few centuries with the wide skirts this collection somehow looked vintage yet totally alien.
Jemima Daisy
Photography by Luke Charles

Issa London - LFW - Saturday 17th September 2011

The Issa collection was full of bright colours and feminine shapes, looking more like a high street summer catalogue than high fashion London.
On trend with hemlines sitting just about the knee with ruffled layers, sassy fruit prints and low necklines.

There seemed to be no consistent theme except summer and femininity. Jungle print jumpsuits and playsuits turned into slowing silk beach dresses made out of huge squares of fabric with wide sleeves and small v-necks. Colours were lush mainly greens and blues against white.
The evening wear was much the same with a fringed, green flapper style dress and the last piece was a Notting Hill Carnival esque feathered body and a huge feathered head dress that was a tad out of place on the catwalks at London Fashion Week.
The summery collection was perfectly sellable and ready to wear.

Jemima Daisy

Photography by Luke Charles