Saturday, 7 May 2011

Golden Thread Award Show – May the Best designer win!

The Golden Thread awards support new and emerging designer talent across Europe. It is an honour to show within the award and it is considered a milestone for designers on their career ladder.
Narrowed down from 166 collections there are 22 collections to see in this show. They are split into two categories – ‘Pret a Porter’ and ‘Premier Vision’.
The speeches opening the show seemed to last forever with a halfhearted English translation as the show begins. 

The first designer to show in the Pret a Porter class was Monika Blazusiak. Her collection was a perfect opener featuring incredible leather wear with structured panels and gorgeous striking silhouettes. The collection had a matrix edge, all in black and charcoal gray leather.

The third designer was Monika Jaworska who created a very sellable collection with a classy colour palette of sand, cream and navy. She used deconstructed, chunky knit mixed with frayed pinstriped cotton. Up-cycling seems to have hit the catwalk hard here and one skirt was an upside down pair of trousers, highlighting not only the up-cycling trend but the androgyny of the collection. This collection reminded me a little of the lost boys in Peter Pan with playful boyish layering and a young fresh edge.
Fourth came Alicja Antoszczyk, using PVC and light jersey this collection took sport luxe to a girly new level with lower hem lines and feminine A-line skirts. Muted nude and tan was mixed with bright colour pops of blue and pink. 

The sixth designer in this category was Domi Gryzbek – this collection was a colourful breath of youth – nude mixed with colour pop neons with cute prints and stunning crystal embellishment. He geometric panels led into mesh cut outs, spangling sequins, disco style and then shift dresses. A favourite piece was a PVC cape/poncho jacket similar to Burberrys recent plastic cape appearances. 

Number 8 was Katherina Kubiak with a collection based around ‘Celts, Science and Fiction’. This was gorgeous and featured striking prints, 17th century bustles and strong feminine silhouettes. The collection felt like it came straight off the set of Alice in Wonderland with a regal denim cape, chequer board prints and a gorgeous moulded breast plate. Although this collection was not at all ready to wear it was a joy to watch!

A chicer, softer collection was Paulina Atuszelanska with soft pleats, light fluid material and oversized men’s jackets in sweet pastels. The lack of prints made for a simple effective collection. This designer featured another nude mesh maxi dress that I have now seen two or 3 of! If you’re travelling to Poland this winter apparently we’re going to see a lot of nipples through these mesh dresses!

Anya Kamarek was last with a very clinical, space age collection building larger than life silhouettes and grey speckled fur. The grey and white palette continues with embossed gray leather in almost tailored panels creative structure and also slimming! There was a 'his and hers' skirt in white that was quite amusing with long maxi strips of white under a shorter mini skirt. I am still not used to seeing hairy legged men in skirts!

The Premier Vision category opened with Damien Konieczny who created an amazing collection of metal wiring attached to black catsuits, the effect was gorgeous! As the models walked the wire rippled and shimmered.  This then became draped capes, rubber dresses and structures created with rolled and bent material that looked very raw and natural. 

Number 4 was Renata Molik whose collection was crazy and attention grabbing. The collection was titled ‘Myspace’ and was like a science fiction dream. The first model wore 15 inch black leather look horns almost like bunny ears. Huge padded piping created odd structures and emphasized the other worldly look. The colour palette morphed from all white, to silver, through gold and finished with black. 

Number 7 was another great collection by Dominika Piekutowska-Swed which featured many natural structures and shapes. The first outfit was a lose bubble dress with fine white thread overlaying it and looked much like a shell or cocoon. The collection followed the clinical trend that many other designers tried to achieve with high necks, piped structured wings on trousers and skirts. 

My next favourite was Agnieszka Kowalska who created an absolutely stunning collection with Tudor style ruffs, cheesecloth fabrics and a dirty edge. Many pieces looked like they were straight out of a period film of milkmaids and farmer boys and the stained, mottled dip die added to this. Being a fan of all things vintage this was by far my favourite collection with the renaissance theme. 

The show was closed with Sofie Gaudaen who designed a hideous red Indian themed collection with garish bright colours, feathered head dresses and fringing… sadly this rather passé collection did not win anything…. Even much applause. 

There were around 8 awards to be given from 20,000 polish zloty cheques, a signed Kenzo poster and many another certificates and such like. Many of the designers received as many as two or 3 awards while the others looked dejected and miserable going home empty handed. 

The overall winner of the Pret a Porter category was Monika Jaworska who created the ‘lost boys’ collection. This was an understandable win – while it wasn’t ground breaking it was obviously well made, well styled and incredibly sellable. 

The overall winner of the innovative Premier Vision category was Agnieszka Kowalska who designed the gorgeous milkmaid collection that I loved so much! The designer was laden with around 3 prizes and looked painfully embarrassed by all the fuss. 

The show closed with one final catwalk collection by Dawid Tomaszewski who is a hugely famous Polish designer special guest. His collection was so ready-to-wear it bordered on dull. There was the usual mix of winter chunky knits, structured knitwear, woolen jackets sitting just above the knee, satin pencil dresses and very classic shapes with little variation. One dress featured a huge band of feathers from shoulder to elbow which was interesting. Fur and feather bibs were used that covered the shoulders and back exposing the arms and raising the neckline to the chin. Jewell embellishment made another appearance on the shoulders and fur was used throughout. One jacket of grey wool featured mismatched gray fur sleeves and feathers were also a popular theme. 

The evening wear was mainly sheer, fluid, gorgeous maxi dresses in deep colours as well as cream and a cream grey dip dyed number too. One teal billowing maxi dress looked breathtaking but the sudden evening wear didn’t sit too well in the surrounding knit and dark wool jackets. Although this collection was undoubtedly incredibly well made and professional (except all the maxi dresses had their ribbon hanging tags sticking out...) it wasnt quite my cup of tea! The hair styling was something that has to be mentioned with lovely plaited fringes that sat just above the eye asymmetrically.

After this show ended the international press were taken to dinner. Having dinner at 12pm is so strange! It means that you can party until 5 am and feel like its only midnight! 
Jesus Christ I'm knackered.
Much Love
Jemima Daisy x

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