Friday, 6 May 2011

Day 2 – The morning

So last night was a little messy. I remember everything and made some great friends within the international media circles and woke up with a hole in my head. I was told that Polish Vodka is so pure that you don’t get a hangover. Either this is a lie or the honey beer and wine did it…

We travelled to the Off-Out show space which is in a beautiful disused and dilapidated factory –I’m now desperate to shoot in one of these run down buildings. The off schedule shows are student and less well known designers. Everything was running fashionably late but this meant the overall effect of the shows was lost – it was underwhelming to see a five minute show after half hours wait and so I will only mention 3 of the shows rather than bitching about the lamer ones.

Weronika Pniewska
This show began with a red suit jacket with a 6 foot train – it was an impressive start. The garments them selves were innovative with obvious up-cycling and tailoring trends present. Although the collection didn’t flow as well as it could have done there were impressive pieces including a GaGa-esque leotard with chest plate and shoulders made out of recycled pipes and fittings and moulded into a golden warriors costume. Another interesting piece was a two piece trouser set made out of seat belts… with the fastening at the centre of the chest and the straps arranged around the models torso with a kinky, bondage edge. 
This collection was let down terribly by the styling. Although the make up and hair was acceptable the models wore a mish mash of tights, shoes and visible underwear. Many of the girls were wearing skin coloured tights of varying shades with gussets and seams all over the place, then of course was what lay beneath.. graying boyshorts, tanga panties, a thong or two. It was incredibly shoddy which really ruined the show for me. Attention to detail is so important in this game!

Filip Roth
This young designer went for the performance edge in his show. His models walked down the catwalk, eyes closed as if sleep walking. 3 models zipped into all white suits reached the end of the catwalk and opened their arms to reveal panels of material that had fashion video footage projected on it.

Impressive pieces included a cocoon  jacket followed by a peacock printed hooded dress – possibly based on metamorphosis and the collection growing and meet ing its climax. The menswear was a little average compared to the womenswear but it was still interesting once again featuring colour pop trends and some hideous toeless brogues. 
Saying that this was my favourite show of the morning due to the surreal, dreamy atmosphere and some gorgeous garments. 

Jacek Klonsinski-Hyakinth
This menswear collection was very strong. It was mainly mens tailoring with a utilitarian edge which somehow mixed with the campness of a red velvet suit and a very 70’s colour palette of rusty orange, mustard and khaki green. The tailoring was worn lazily in parts, with long trailing sleeves, untucked shirts and scruffy shoes. This fitted the dilapidated environment – if there were warehouses like it in London we’d use them too!
Overall the collection worked, despite a few inconsistencies and ideas that seemed to have been plucked out of thin air and thrown in for good measure. 

Shows in Poland are very much about the performance. Choreography is key, the music is incredibly well planned and suited and props are used on the runway rather than just displaying a designers name. Impressive considering the low budgets that students and emerging designers face.

Minor bitch
Other show was Karolina Rybarczyk – all black, unimpressive tailoring, very simple. Big spikes of black were added to hair and garments. Although the styling was slick, the fashion couldn’t back it up.

Onto the afternoon!
Much Love
Jemima Daisy

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