Tuesday, 1 March 2011

Fatima Lopes

Looking at our monochrome, geometric printed tickets we can guess that this collection is going to be based around black and white.
Reading the press release before the show began suspicions are confirmed.The collection is ‘black and white like a chessboard’  and suggest ‘a battle between light and dark’ with  a flash of 60’s inspiration and just one emerald green outfit.
The show eventually begins after the French Fashion VIP’s are photographed and interviewed on the row in front of us. The opening music is an eerie piano piece and three models enter the catwalk and stand at the base showing off the first 3 pieces. The first dress down the catwalk is stunning. An all white high necked maxi dress with a central strip of vertical pleats leading down to a pleated maxi skirt slightly gathered at the ankles.
Following dresses featured sleeves attached to the hips so the space between the elbows and waist was a strange half moon cut out. Wool, leather and fur were the main materials used. The structured fur made for a very feminine luxurious look and the tight leather and knitwear highlighted the gorgeous shapes, distorted check print and clean lines. The collection began with very futuristic clean lines featuring structuring and opening well.  This moved to flowing knits and casual draping with half maxi skirts and deep V necks then changing again to a more sophisticated, chic look with lady like cropped capes, cinched waists and tight fitted leather pencil skirts and leather panelled trousers.
This look changed again into a mix of futuristic geometric shapes, cut outs, half black half white outfits and armour like structuring. There was a hint of the orient in a few pieces with wide leather waist cinchers and deep necks worn over more skin tight leather panelled trousers that the press release tells us are a ‘second skin’ for ‘extra protection’. Origami fine pleats, knitwear and divine structuring turn to evening wear and the collection takes a darker tone. All black maxi dress, so tight the models can barely walk with lace inserts, cut away shoulders and sleeves and sparkling flashes on sheer fabrics. So soon after leather biker trousers and ribbed, shaggy fur from Punto this selection of outfits feel out of place.
One of the last outfits is an Emerald Green sequin playsuit with a low v neck, waist cincher and attached sheer sea green flared trouser legs.
Overall this collection had some stunning outfits, beautiful tailoring and pleating but seems to have been missedited with a few pieces sticking out and making little sense in the overall show. Paris seems to be just as in line with the UK trends and I can’t wait to see more of this monochrome, androgynous fabulousness!
Defintately a designer to look out for!

Much Love
Jemima Daisy

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