Tuesday, 22 February 2011

A La Disposition - The Utopian Aviary AW11

Arriving at the A La Disposition show it is obvious that we are just not cool enough for this underground show, as overdressed, socialite fashionistas are marched past the queuing ticket holders and plonked on the first row of the Vauxhall Fashion Scout show. We are eventually shown to our second row seats where glaring goths give us the eye as we try to swipe a good bag from an empty front row seat.
When the show finally begins (over half an hour late) we are greeted with the sounds of birds in flight. The A La Disposition press release is all we have to keep us entertained in the mean time and it is a flowery, over the top affair, describing hardly any of the clothes and waffling on about metaphors, ‘naivete of ideal societies’, utopia and egalitarianism. So its a good laugh.  (Today also sees the launch of the brands perfume and if you’ve ever read a perfume description you’ll find its equally as OTT.)
From the title of the collection we expect feathered embellishment, flowing fabrics and insane structuring. We are happily surprised by an intelligent mix of jewel colours and innovative structural silohuettes. The models are styled with red contact lenses which is instantly a little bit scary. Shoulders are padded and built up with petal layers of slightly metalic fabrics.  There are many an a-line skirt and high standing collars that replicate (I imagine) the impressive show of mating, exotic birds. Tail coats are layered over pin tucked skirts which gives more of a beetle look than that of a bird.  Fabrics used include chiffons, taffeta and gossamer silk – thick wool is shaved to create a faux fur, zebra effect that makes up a jacket/trouser suit as well as the lower half of an orange pair of trouser/shorts.
Gathering and pin tucks create amazing puff sleeves and almost tudor puff shorts. This collection really does have a bit of everything!
The next thing that you notice is that outfits have had the pinking shears taken to them giving them a laser cut look with petal details and symetrical bustle layers.
Another element is almost military with double breasted jackets that sport golden buttons – along with the tails jackets this gives the earlier looks a very nautical edge. This collection is technically amazing with so many different skills utilized – totally unwearable but still very impressive – especially if you like bright colours. The collection featured many of this seasons emerging trends with the torso silohutte, graphic prints, knee length skirts,feminine bustles and dusky jewel colours. Last but not least are the shoes – courts with sculptural heels in all colours of the rainbow.
Although this collection had a lot of obvious technical skill, which was noted, the press release really ruined it for me - there was also just too much to take in.
Still with the perfume launch later on in the day this is obviously a brand to watch out for.
Jemima Daisy

Images by Andy Espin

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